Clos Frantin Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru 'Malconsorts'
A really pleasing set of wines from Domaines Bichot, with once again the highlights coming from jewel in the crown Domaine du Clos Frantin, although honourable mention for the sumptuous Beaune 1er Cru ‘Clos de la Mouche’ – one of my favourite whites and another “under the radar” gem (see video). I think 2019 is Clos Frantin’s best vintage since the glorious 2015, and really shows what a great year it is for Vosne Romanée, from bottom to top. The village Vosne is a dinner party must (especially in magnums – and like with 2015 I’ll certainly be snaffling a case for myself), and the 1er Cru Malconsorts is sensational – “an iron fist in an iron gauntlet wrapped in velvet”. The Echezeaux – a Decanter Award “Best In Show” winner (like Honest Grapes :) ) this year is again superb, and there is a new addition to the range – Vosne 1er Cru ‘Les Rouges’ – a vineyard lying atop Echezeaux – which particularly impressed for its density, drive, and definition – and at a great value point, above the village wine but below Malconsorts.
We also had a really interesting discussion with Delphine about more inclusive wine language which has led me to adopt shapes to better describe the character of different cuvées, rather than the increasingly hackneyed and lazy “feminine” and “masculine” tropes. I’d encourage all to try the same – even if thinking of wines as circles, square, or square within circles, or even isosceles triangles, might take an epistemological shift. Its overdue!
"The domaine has the largest plantings of this top premier cru from Vosne, one of the first in line for elevation to Grand Cru status, and even declassified a parcel in 2007 to keep the quantity as high as possible. It remains half the price of the other parcel owners’ expressions and a fiftieth the cost of a bottle of neighbour La Tache! From 40 year old vines, 40% whole bunch vinified and 40% new oak. Very rich velvety nose, dark and compact berry fruits, a real rabbit's hole of deeper aromas - mocha, tapenade, tamarind. Palate is similarly densely woven but is showing more layers, lots of stones, very juicy though, high-toned finish, really lovely – the best since 2015." Tom Harrow, Wine Guru
"18th September, though I am told it is rare to pick both their plots on the same day. Very dense vibrant purple. Spending time on the nose, which shows some class, but it is the power, which kicks in, the sort of lively cherries, which can come with whole bunch. Really fine sensual finish, very long too. Shows the value of this terroir. Tasted: October 2020" 93-96 pts, Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy
"The 2019 Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts 1er Cru was harvested on different days, as Bichot owns sites on varied soil profiles within the vineyard. Initially closed, it opens nicely to offer dark cherries, bergamot and tea leaf notes. The palate is very harmonious with good backbone, grippy tart red fruit and a mineral-driven, quite sturdy finish. Excellent." 92-94 pts, Vinous, Antonio Galloni
"Cask sample. Mid blueish crimson. Sweet and very slightly oaky on the nose. Big and beefier than most of the Bichot premiers crus. Good Vosne energy and precision. Not nearly ready but well constituted. Rather savoury on the finish. Good texture and focused fruit. Lots of tension and interest on the end." 17 pts, Jancis Robinson
|Grower||Domaine du Clos Frantin|
|Duty Paid / In Bond||In Bond|
|Bottle or Case?||Price by the Case|
|Wine Type||Red wines|
Albert Bichot and Domaine du Clos Frantin
13 hectares of prime award winning vineyards
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