Gevrey-Chambertin Les Murots, Domaine du Clos Frantin, 2019

A really pleasing set of wines from Domaines Bichot, with once again the highlights coming from jewel in the crown Domaine du Clos Frantin, although honourable mention for the sumptuous Beaune 1er Cru ‘Clos de la Mouche’ – one of my favourite whites and another “under the radar” gem (see video). I think 2019 is Clos Frantin’s best vintage since the glorious 2015, and really shows what a great year it is for Vosne Romanée, from bottom to top. The village Vosne is a dinner party must (especially in magnums – and like with 2015 I’ll certainly be snaffling a case for myself), and the 1er Cru Malconsorts is sensational – “an iron fist in an iron gauntlet wrapped in velvet”. The Echezeaux – a Decanter Award “Best In Show” winner (like Honest Grapes :) ) this year is again superb, and there is a new addition to the range – Vosne 1er Cru ‘Les Rouges’ – a vineyard lying atop Echezeaux – which particularly impressed for its density, drive, and definition – and at a great value point, above the village wine but below Malconsorts.

We also had a really interesting discussion with Delphine about more inclusive wine language which has led me to adopt shapes to better describe the character of different cuvées, rather than the increasingly hackneyed and lazy “feminine” and “masculine” tropes. I’d encourage all to try the same – even if thinking of wines as circles, square, or square within circles, or even isosceles triangles, might take an epistemological shift. Its overdue!

"Les Murots is to the east of the village, on the lower slopes, with chalky clay soils underneath poor scree gravel. 25% whole bunch and 30% new oak. Attractive spiced berry nose, mostly red fruits with some sandalwood, liquorice and pressed flower notes. Palate delivers a tight burst of red cherries and red plum skin, some definite stoniness even on the attack, bright acidity, a touch of truffley humus, not a long finish but decent and deft." Tom Harrow, Wine Guru