Domaine Philippe Colin, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru 'Maltroie'
- Burgundy, France
Although not the most demonstrative of growers, Philippe is clearly pleased with the results of his 2017s. For starters, harvest is double the miserly quantity of 2016 produced (my innocent query “does that mean it will be half the price?” was met with a wry grin). He says that Chardonnay performs better with a larger harvest, and he has now taken on more vineyards from his parents and other owners. Good news about volumes aside, the quality is of course what we care most about, and this only continues to delight. The definition of the fruit and transparency to the terroir impresses with Philippe’s continuing preference for large oak barrels (the crus use up to 30% new oak but two thirds tonneau for better integration) really paying dividends.
"Bright pale yellow. Totally different on the nose than the Chaumées, with aromas of pineapple, fresh stone fruits and mirabelle complicated by a stony element. A step up in thickness and depth too, but with its sweetness effortlessly buffered by serious mineral thrust. This silky wine finishes dusty, firm and long, with hints of apple and spices and subtle underlying backbone." 90-92/100 Stephen Tanzer, Vinous.com
"Philippe makes just five barrels from this famous vineyard, with its high clay percentage which always seems to translate in to opulence and depth. Dense and powerful, as ever a little more direct and swashbuckling than Chenevottes, the nose is rich with peach and pear and some cinnamon and sweet pastry with a broad, sweet yet silken mouthfeel, quite unctuous but nicely compact. His ripest-tasting cru with plenty of pineapple and European stone fruits, this will continue to flesh out but it’s good to see there is plenty enough lime-edged acidity keeping everything in line like a musketeer’s blade." /Tom Harrow
|Wine Type||White wines|
|Wine Style||Rich White|
|Drinkability||Early in drinking window|
|Food Match||Cheese - Chèvre/Goats Cheese, Fowl - Chicken chasseur, Rice - Risotto, Mushroom, Seafood - Poached Salmon|