Tom's Top 10: Burgundy 2013
We've talked Burgundy 2013 before, but, following on from some client questions, our wine director Tom has put together his top 10 - specifically the best mid-term drinking and longer-term cellaring wines from the vintage.
Our offering was based around a select core of over-performing producers mainly at the 1er cru level, which evidence the words of a top grower (Etienne de Montille): “the quality of the best terroirs can heal the vintage”. It was a particularly good year for whites but reds needed to be very carefully chosen, and that is what we have done. At their best as the saying goes “le premier verre appelle le deuxième”.
Below are our favourite wines from the vintage – a drinker and a keeper from five domaines –and Mark Haisma’s lovely Santenay for good measure.
Mark Haisma, Santenay
Aussie Mark continues to impress with his dedication and commitment to sourcing and nurturing excellent parcels of vines from the growers he works with. When I visited him in October I ended up stomping the recently harvested Gevrey grapes in one of the fermenting vats which was a first. For a self- confessed acid freak, the vintage is right up Mark’s alley and although we have known him for his Nuits wines, we also really loved his lieu dit Volnay in 2013 and his stunning, succulent Santenay white.
- DRINK 12 bottles Santenay “St Jean” (17 JR) (Drink from 2016) £210 In Bond.Buy Online
- DRINK 12 bottles Puligny Montrachet (Drink from 2017) £290 In Bond. Buy Online
- INVEST 6 bottles Puligny Montrachet 1er cru “Perrieres” (Drink from 2019) £225 In Bond. Buy Online
This domaine keeps getting better and better. Charles took over from his father Philippe over ten years ago, quickly moving the domaine up a notch. Since then he has continued to refine and develop the quality of the wines. He makes refined, racy Meursault more in the style of Roulot than Lafon, which also age well, gaining amplitude and complexity with age without ever losing their vivacity and drive – nowadays they are highly regarded and securing allocations is ever more challenging.
6 bottles Meursault 1er cru “Charmes” (17.5 JR) (Drink from 2019) Buy Online
Domaine Duroché, Gevrey Chambertin
Gevrey was the most successful village in 2013, and I found Duroché the top performing and best value domaine I tasted – an absolute winner from the Bourgogne Rouge up through the Grands Crus: everything at the highest quality at each level, with a balance of energy, concentration and harmonious fruit rivalled by few. Pierre, who has slowly taken over from his father Gilles, enjoys some excellent vineyard holdings, old vines across most of them and crops at a very low yield. Talking with him, it is clear he is quietly determined to guarantee that the domaine is propelled in to the top ranks and tasting this range of wines, which are among the top scorers of the vintage, he is clearly well on the way.
- DRINK 12 bottles Gevrey Chambertin “Les Clos” (91 TA) (Drink from 2021) £300 In Bond. Buy Online
- INVEST 6 bottles Gevrey Chambertin 1er cru “Lavaut St Jacques” (96 TA, “The Sweet Spot” AM) (Drink from 2026) £275 In Bond. Buy Online
Domaine du Clos Frantin, Nuits-St-Georges
Clos Frantin, 13 hectares of prime vineyards in the Cote de Nuits is the jewel in the crown of the Albert Bichot’s award-winning 6th generation Burgundy business. As well as having 5 Grands Crus in its portfolio it is the largest proprietor of Malconsorts, Vosne’s much loved 1er Cru, sited next door to and sharing the same terroir as DRC’s La Tâche. The progress in this domain continues to excite, with lower yields and less oak and like Duroché above, alongside whom it received very high scores, the alliance of perfumed, ripe, enveloping fruit with great precision and drive, make these wines unmissable in 2013.
12 bottles Vosne Romanée (89-91 AM) (Drink from 2020) £390 In Bond. Buy Online
- INVEST 6 bottles Vosne Romanée 1er cru “Les Malconsorts” (91-94, “The Sweet Spot” AM) (Drink from 2025) £395 In Bond. Buy Online
Domaine George Lignier, Morey Saint Denis
Run by George’s nephew Benoit, Lignier’s wines emphasise aromatic elegance and purity. Soft and restrained, but far from diffuse (they actually have a little more stuffing than many from Morey), they are wonderfully digestible yet patrician wines, the epitome of graceful and charming Burgundy. 2006 Clos des Ormes has been on Honest Grapes’ website since we launched and shows how beautifully these wines can age. Lignier scored highly from Jancis Robinson’s team – their Grands Crus amongst the wines of the vintage and terrific value too.
Published on: March 6, 2015