Philippe Pacalet Moulin-à-Vent
Thanks to an itinerary change we were able to spend well over two hours with Philippe in his cellar and tasted everything – including several cuvées from different aged barrels – first from new oak and then from others ten year old. Putting senior Premier Crus and Grand Crus in decade old oak (constantly filled) is a classic example of how, like everything about his wines, Philippe marches to the beat of his own drum. Philippe echoed the conversations we’d had with several other winemakers about climate change adding that “the vines are adapting quicker than we are”. He suggests the hot vintages from 2015 to 2020 (excepting the cooler 2017) resemble the post war years 1945-49 that were also replete with extraordinary ‘vins gards’. “We have more tannins, more acids, more sugars, more aromatics, more everything”. He doesn’t worry about sorting the grapes as the dry harvests ensure the grapes always arrive in perfect physiological health. He also appreciates the hot summers when out working the vines. “We used to have cold, wet summers like in England, being in the vineyards was shit, I prefer it now”. I won’t go into detail about the wines, that’s all to come – but lots to love across the appellations and cru levels. I do however think the Fixin and even more so Fixin 1er Cru are well worth a look for anyone wanting to begin their Pacalet journey and was really impressed by the whites. We also tried a Beaujolais ‘vin de primeur’ (Nouveau - 2020) he makes exclusively for Japanese clients and a delicious cremant from Aligote and Pinot Noir ‘Bulles’ – which thankfully is not. Great alternative festive bubbles from one of Burgundy’s true mavericks.
"Pacalet’s Moulin a Vent defies conventional opinions on Beaujolais. A proper Vin Garde, every cellar should have a case as this is a dinner party favourite when you want to confuse wine knowledgeable guests. From sandy soils, this is rich and dark with dry spice and a touch of smoke on the breeze. Palate shows great terroir definition and intensity, and there are some rich tannins to guarantee longevity. Philippe, taking on the mantle of his pioneering uncle Marcel Lapierre, continues to take Gamay to the next frontier." Tom Harrow, Wine Guru
|Duty Paid / In Bond||In Bond|
|Wine Type||Red wines|
A winemaker on a mission
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