Chablis Grand Cru, Les Clos, Domaine William Fevre, 2020

"Glowing citrus yellow. Restrained intensity, a wine of the highest class from the first sniff. At the outset it is all about the fruit, and the stones (undeniably present) can wait. There is a huge intensity of pure white fruit, very concentrated at the finish, inalienably Les Clos. I suggest a long wait before you open your bottles, eight to ten years or more. Tasted: June 2021."

"A cool, restrained and airy nose grudgingly divulges its combination of lemon rind, green apple, quinine and acacia blossom scents that are also trimmed in discreet wood. There is again excellent volume and concentration to the powerful and muscular flavors that also coat the palate with dry extract on the impressively complex and hugely long finish. This is classic Les Clos in that it manages to be at once big and overtly powerful while remaining refined and classy. This is, in a word, stunning."

"The 2020 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is another brilliant effort from Fèvre's immensely able winemaker, Didier Seguier, and his team. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of confit citrus, fresh bread, oyster shell, orange zest and crisp orchard fruit, it's full-bodied, satiny and muscular, with a concentrated, tensile profile and a long, intensely saline finish. It's the broadest and most powerful wine in the range, while remaining quintessentially Chablisien."