Henschke Wines, Hill Of Grace 2018, 2018

"Full screwcapped bottle 1,265 g. The famous Hill of Grace west-facing vineyard 4 km north of Mount Edelstone that was planted with pre-phylloxera plants, the Grandfathers, brought from Europe in the mid 1800s, on very varied soils. Red-brown clay-loam grades to deep silty loam at 400 m over slate bedrock. Average rainfall is 520 mm a year. The original Ancestors vines are now about 160 years old. There are also centenarian vines and some that were planted about 35 years ago – all on their own roots, hence strict hygiene controls on those entering the vineyard. Each block is different apparently: House (the lightest soils with gravel in middle), Church (shallower red clay), PO Block 2 (shallower than 1), PO Block 1, Grandfathers (on the deepest soil with vines that take ages to ripen but offer exotic and spicy flavours), Windmill (less loess, more red clay and more vigorous – competes for latest with Grandfathers). An anti-frost fan was installed in 2005. Picked 18 to 21 April. This wine is really all about the vineyard rather than the winery. Matured for 18 months in oak hogsheads (29% new), of which 17% were American rather than French oak. pH 3.52, TA 6.4 g/l. Sumptuous nose with an amazing array of savoury notes and with something distinctly mineral. Broad and absolutely bone dry – a contrast to Hill of Roses and Mount Edelstone. Very serious, almost gruff on the palate. Long with slightly more obvious alcohol than some. The tannins are almost hidden ('we spend a lot of time walking through the vineyard tasting for tannin maturity', according to Stephen Henschke). Amazingly long. But this is by far the most youthful of these new releases. 14.5% Drink 2024 – 2040"

"The miraculous crimson colour is an early indication of a Hill of Grace that underlines its reputation as one of Australia’s greatest wines...It moves with grace from start to finish, red fruits keeping a narrow lead over dark/black berries. Tiny yield"

"Pretty deep purplish crimson. Not much evolution at the rim (unlike the Hill of Roses). Initially pretty reticent on the nose. Then fumes started to swirl up from the glass as from a cauldron! I'm thinking witches here. Luscious ripe fruit within a stern framework — it really is impossible to spit out. Strong saline quality on the (very long) finish. Just unfurling in the glass but the intensity of the fruit almost masks the tannic charge. I know Stephen Henschke talks about the red and black fruit here but I get lots of mineral stuff. It is a really very unusual combination of lift/freshness with intensity of historic Shiraz. Such throat-soothing persistence! But what a price!! (Though more or less the same as Penfolds Grange 2016.) 24 hours later the colour seems to have mellowed. But the wine is still amazingly luscious and broad with strong mineral and saline notes. Decant this and you could enjoy it immediately."

"Henschke's 2016 Hill of Grace Shiraz is locked up tight behind a stubborn wall of firm tannins. Scents of pencil shavings, mocha, bay leaf, mixed berries and plums appear on the nose, while the full-bodied palate starts off broad, expansive, and creamy, then draws to a chewy, drying finish. There's ample concentration, length, complexity, and a definitive track record of ageing, so put this version away for several years while waiting for it to emerge and show its true glory. If you absolutely must drink it now, decanting for a couple of hours helps soften the tannins and brings the fruit forward."