Torbreck Vintners, RunRig, 2022

"It seems improbable that RunRig should warrant a slightly lower score than Descendant, but I am only reporting what I tasted on the 28th of April 2025 at Clarette in London. Descendant took to the stage with no hesitation, while RunRig was a tight ball of introspection. What I admire most about this wine is that it simply doesn’t care what is happening around it. It didn’t feel under any pressure to perform, and it didn’t. While the other wines strive to win everyone over, 2022 RunRig remains completely nonplussed, supremely confident in its abilities and in no rush to reveal its class. Of course, there is amazing potential here, and it is on the train, biding its time. But when will it decide to get off the locomotive and get busy? I just cannot tell you the answer to this question, but it won’t be this year or the next, and probably not the one after that, either. Stay tuned."

"The 2022 RunRig had 2% Viognier added to the Syrah after barrel maturation, from the current vintage. I've clarified this with winemaker Ian Hongell, because my incorrect memory ran toward skins only. Glad I asked. Aromatically, the wine is so fresh and detailed; it hints at latent power and intense concentration, but it doesn't overbear on this point. On the palate, the wine has everything we could hope for—intense, balanced red fruit, a splay of ductile tannins and such a light fluffiness to the profile that I find it most appealing indeed. The discussion here today is regarding the comparison to the great 2021 vintage. It was a freak, out-of-the-box year that blessed producers with a spot-free growing season, good yields and excellent quality fruit. The wines, for the most part, will endure through the decades with grace and ease. The 2022s are tighter, fluffier, more fruit forward and, in my opinion, slightly more delicious, but over the long term, backing the 2021s to go the distance seems the blue-chip option. We can discuss this again in 20 years (2045) when that answer will have become more clear. In the words of Ferris Bueller, "Life moves pretty fast." I love this wine today. It's a superstar. 15.5% alcohol, sealed under natural cork and wax."

"A deeply perfumed and lifted release. Aromas of blackberries, dark chocolate, violets, iodine, porcini mushrooms, fresh herbs and an earthy, ferrous undertone. The palate is full-bodied with finely tuned tannins and a luscious and seamless mouthfeel. There is much complexity and refinement, with a high level of fruit quality. Built for the ages. Drink or hold."