Volnay Premier Cru, En Champans, Domaine de Montille, 2019
Volnay Premier Cru, En Champans, Domaine de Montille, 2019
- Red Still
- Organic
- Biodynamic
- Pinot Noir
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Our visits to de Montille get (thankfully) longer each year as we continue to deepen our relationship with Etienne, Brian and the team. I can't think of another address in Burgundy that has such strength in its domaine whites and Cote de Beaune reds (and the highly sought after Vosne Romanée ‘Malconsorts' cherry on top) so we are delighted to carry a good selection from across their portfolio.
Brian is rightly pleased with the domaine's wines again this year commenting on a good balance of acidity and alcohol but adding a note of caution about climate change: 2019 was one of the driest vintages on record and he suggests Burgundy is in “in a window right now. Pinot Noir is a delicate variety and we need more water and less sun”. Overall he preferred slightly fewer whole bunches and less new oak than 2018. Etienne adds that 2019 has a “classic textural character” and was “a consensual vintage – everyone could make the style of wine they wanted, unlike the last three vintages, here there is something for everyone”. The latter is certainly true here at de Montille with chiselled, polished reds and racy but juicy whites. Once again Beaune 1er Cru (both colours) continues to over perform and offer exceptional value.
From a parcel that runs the length of the vineyard vertically so sandy limestone at the top, marl in the middle, and heavier clay at bottom. 50% whole bunch in 2018. 50% whole bunch, and 30% new oak in 2019. Dried herb edged, smoky red berry nose. Palate is bright and quite ample, but although well fleshed it still has good focus and an inky, savoury concentration, with a good balance of supple and crunchy spiced red plums and red berries. Tom Harrow, Wine Guru
What the critics say:
"One third whole bunch. Medium deep purple, quite a complex nose with raspberry and strawberry more than the cherry, which we have seen in many other wines, some orange blossom too, then a thicker sweeter fruit behind. Tightly knit. Tasted: October 2020"
"The 2019 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru is a cru whereby Brian Sieve aims to create a more silky Champans that expresses all the soil types. This includes 50% whole cluster and 30% new oak. It has a well-defined bouquet of red berry fruit, sous-bois and delicate mineral aromas. The palate is well balanced with crunchy red berry fruit, quite saline in the mouth, with a fine crescendo toward the finish. Very good length here. A very lovely and elegant Les Champans."
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