Domaine de Montille Meursault 1er Cru 'Les Porusots'
- Burgundy, France
The de Montilles' 0.57ha of vines are all located on a slope in the upper part of Poruzots. With the subtle, struck-match reduction that's a feature of the domaine's white wine style, this is leesy, textured and refined, with a freshness that reminds you of Puligny-Montrachet.
94/100 Tim Atkin MW for Decanter
From the highest part of vineyard with chalkier soils (very near the vines owned by Domaine Roulot), this is fresher in style although later ripening given its elevation. A mixture of small and large oak, of which twenty-five percent is new, is used in the elevage. The herbal, green apple nose, with a touch of smoky bacon, yields to a palate with a good balance of glycerol richness, purity and charm, exuding plenty of green and yellow fruits and lithe but not aggressive acidity. A very pleasing drop with some interesting evolution ahead.
Tasting with winemaker Brian Sieve at de Montille is always a pleasurable education, and once again we were treated to an impressively consistent set of wines, including the domaine’s best whites since 2014, accompanied by his typically measured appraisal of the vintage and the market. Regarding the latter, Brian suggests that prices are due to stabilize but that demand is relentless and quality high - “your top domaines are going to swing and miss on very few vintages”, and with certain domaines guiding particular crus on a specific trajectory, 2017 could be seen as excellent value in a few year’s time.
Of the vintage, Brian says 2017 is built for serious pleasure, with svelte tannins and juicy structure holding plenty of strawberries and raspberries. Preferring to pick early when grapes still have two thirds tartaric acid, and only a third malic acid, he believes the domaine’s 2017 reds have the supple richness and concentration of 2016 with the quantity, acidity and primary red fruit profile of 2011. Easy to understand, balanced and graceful, with alcohol bordering 13%, 2017 is good news for drinkers and yet he sees nothing to suggest the wines won’t age well.
Etienne de Montille meanwhile begins by quoting neighbour Michel Lafarge who said 2017 is “a mix of ‘59 and ‘61”. In his own reds, Etienne sees a rare vintage with plenty of plush, fleshy fruit and early integration, a sense of floral freshness like 2007, but with tension and spiciness due to their preference for varying degrees of whole cluster. This is allied to a rare intensity of minerality and salinity, accompanied by no harsh, square tannins, and so he is delighted by the sense of harmony in the wines. And then there are the whites… “best since 2014”, without quite the same density and volume, but with same transparency, salinity and vivacity.
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