Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
- Burgundy, France
It’s all change again at the domaine, with Jacques Devauges crossing the road from Clos de Tart to take the helm, after Boris Champy’s brief tenure, following Thierry Brouin’s 38 years as winemaker. Does billionaire owner Bernard Arnault have another acquisition in the region pending? The rumour mill was certainly hard at work at time of writing… Meanwhile in the cellar, Jacques reminded us that 2018 was the warmest year on record with early flowering at the end of May and harvest completed at the domaine by 3rd September, thus avoiding the problems of stuck fermentation that especially affected those who picked much later. A great set of reds from the domaine, the Clos 2018 is definitely a legend.
Nose of crushed cloves, and dense and deep dark fruits, with a rich perfume of ground coffee, black truffles, raspberries, red cherries and soy notes. Tannins are bold and broad but also very long and refined, carrying a great wave of salty minerals to accompany the mushroom and forest accented berry fruit, concentrated not heavy, you feel the wine on the top of the palate. Gorgeous. Unmissable. Tom, Wine Guru
The 2018 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is showing very well, exhibiting notes of cassis, ripe wild berries, dark chocolate, black truffles, grilled squab and rich soil tones. On the palate, it's full-bodied, multidimensional and elegant, with refined structuring tannins, lively acids and good concentration. This is a deep and complete Clos des Lambrays that was vinified with 80% whole cluster and matured in 50% new oak. At 13.6% alcohol, it's very nicely balanced, and seems set to rank as the finest rendition of this quasi-monopole since at least 2015. 93-95+, William Kelley, Wine Advocate
The 2018 Clos des Lambrays is 80% whole bunch this year and aged in 50% new oak. Jacques Desvauges took the sample from two barrels in proportion with the wood. It has a floral bouquet with scents of wilted rose petals and incense, hints of cedar filtering through the red berry fruit. The stems are much better integrated than in the Les Loups. The elegant palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, peppery but harmonious and sustained, and plenty of energy toward the finish. This is the only vintage vinified by Boris Champy, and he did a fine job. 93-95/100, Neal Martin, Vinous
Clos des Lambrays is in something of a transitional phase right now, with the departure of one winemaker and the arrival of another, so it will be interesting to see how the style evolves. This is a classically firm, ageworthy expression of the terroir, marked by its 80% whole bunches, which give it a stemmy, peaty, almost Islay malt whisky-like note, a tannic backbone and layers of dark black cherry and damson fruit. 94/100, Tim Atkin MW
Domaine des Lambrays
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Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru, 2017
From £1,155.00 per case
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Domaine des Lambrays Morey St Denis, 2018
From £342.00 per case