Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
It’s all change again at the domaine, with Jacques Devauges crossing the road from Clos de Tart to take the helm, after Boris Champy’s brief tenure, following Thierry Brouin’s 38 years as winemaker. Does billionaire owner Bernard Arnault have another acquisition in the region pending? The rumour mill was certainly hard at work at time of writing… Meanwhile in the cellar, Jacques reminded us that 2018 was the warmest year on record with early flowering at the end of May and harvest completed at the domaine by 3rd September, thus avoiding the problems of stuck fermentation that especially affected those who picked much later. A great set of reds from the domaine, the Clos 2018 is definitely a legend.
"Jacques has gone with 80% whole bunch and 60% new wood, whereas Thierry Brouin preferred 50% new wood but all of it from François Frères. Jacques has varied his barrel coopers a little more and paid extra attention to the chauffe. We tasted almost all the cuvées and there were radical differences depending on location and vine age. What matters though will be the final blend, of which Jacques prepared me what should be an accurate version. A fine deep and even crimson. Complex bouquet as you might expect after tasting all the components. There is a serene weight to this, with waves of detail. A richer fruit perhaps than before and though the whole bunch percentage is 80% it is much more submerged in the fruit. Starting to get some aromatic top notes, very persistent. Neither acid nor tannins standing out, more the fruit but with a sense of a refined structure too. Very beautiful complex, perfumed finish. I am not going to say that Jacques has gone straightaway back to the great vintage of the ‘20s and ‘30s but there is very considerable promise here." 93-97 pts, Jasper Moris, Inside Burgundy
"The 2019 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru was tasted both as separate parcels per vine age and as a final blend, which is 13.6° alcohol. This year the whole bunch contribution is 80%, matured in 60% new oak, which is a little more than it used to be and from various cooperages (hitherto it was exclusively François Frères with very light toasting.) This has an intense bouquet, initially very tightly wound and requiring aeration, gradually revealing predominantly black fruit, crushed limestone, graphite and pressed iris flower aromas. Very fine delineation but certainly aromatics that will require bottle age. The palate confirms this. It is very fresh on the entry with a much subtler influence of the stems compared to those under former winemaker Thierry Brouin. There is a light tang of white pepper and tobacco, very fine tannins with a poised, almost understated finish that is silky smooth in texture. Swallowing a mouthful (it was the finally tasting of the day) there is persistence that I think was lacking in recent vintages. This balletic, "Margot Fonteyne of Morey-Saint-Denis", will pirouette across your senses." 95-97 pts, Neal Martin
"Lower yields both by Nature and intentionally. Organic vines were converted to biodynamics in April 2020, which reduced yields further. 80% whole bunch, 60% new oak. Cask sample. Silky texture on the nose. Quite lifted with that hint of cassis that is evident in many 2019s. Manages to exhibit both structure and finesse. Restrained and subtle." 18 pts, Jancis Robinson
"The 2019 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is very promising indeed, mingling scents of blood orange, wild berries and plums with notions of exotic spices, wilted rose petals, row cocoa and loamy soil. Full-bodied, velvety and layered, it's deep and multidimensional, with a concentrated, elegantly fleshy core, lively acids, largely concealed tannins and a precise, perfumed finish." 94-96 pts, William Kelley, WA
"An extremely subtle application of wood sets off the intensely floral-scented nose of herbal tea, poached plum, spice elements and a hint of newly turned earth. There is excellent volume to the caressing yet punchy medium weight plus flavors that exude both a lovely minerality and focused power on the delineated and beautifully persistent finish where the only reproach is a hint of wood. 2019 is a fine vintage for Clos des Lambrays and one that should repay extended keeping." 92-95 pts, Allen Meadows, Burghound
|Grower||Domaine des Lambrays|
|Custom Stock Status||Pre-Order|
|Duty Paid / In Bond||In Bond|
|Wine Type||Red wines|
Domaine des Lambrays
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