Domaine Duroché Gevrey-Chambertin
Pierre was one of our first appointments in November and set the bar high as always. The global demand for his Grands Crus means allocations are keenly fought over but the quality and value across the range is always exciting and we are pleased to have a good supply of Pierre’s various expressions of Gevrey Chambertin. In 2018 all the wines were picked in the first week of September and ABV is between 12.5-13.5%. New oak is kept to a minimum and there is 20% whole bunch for the 1er crus and up. The wines were bottled without fining or filtering in November. Pierre suggests the wines have the fruit of 2015 but with riper, silkier tannins and greater elegance, due to the water reserves from the heavy winter and spring rains. It was certainly a super set – from Bourgogne to Beze, and finishing our tasting with a 1969 Lavaut Saint Jacques (blind) shows that for all their deftness and elegance, Duroché’s wines are built to last.
From ten parcels of sites east and north of the village.Stony, leafy, earthy aromas, around plums and forest berries. Palate is succulent but focussed with pointed acidity which really balances the ripeness of the fruit which is less blue than in cooler years (2013, 2014, 2017). Duroché’s wines are rarely extravagant but this village Gevrey is certainly more extrovert in 2018. Tom, Wine Guru
Fruit from 10 parcels (total 3 ha), some from the lower parts such as Le Fourneau and the rest on the Brochon side, eg Champerrier. Their biggest bottling – 56 barrels – and a little bit of new oak (smaller volumes for other wines so less likely to use any new oak). Tank sample but about to be bottled. Delicate dark fruit on the nose and juicy and fresh, more red fruited on the palate. Pure and deep fruited, tangy and lively. Tannins are firm but not intrusive. Chewy fresh finish. 16/20, Julia Harding MW
Pretty, mid purple. The nose is quite perky with some attractive violet notes and fresh raspberry, maybe a little darker on the palate but with an attractive vivacity. Pierre did well to take his foot off the pedal in 2018. Good density at the finish despite the gentle approach. 90/100, Jasper Morris MW
The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Village has a slightly rustic, ferrous bouquet that needs to knit together during the remainder of its élevage. The palate conveys satisfying sapidity and steely tannins. The taut, brisk, stony finish disguises the warmth of the growing season. Superb winemaking on display here. This is Pierre Duroché’s largest cuvée at 57 barrels. 89-91/100, Neal Martin, Vinous
91/100, Tim Atkin MW
|Duty Paid / In Bond||In Bond|
|Wine Type||Red wines|
Five generation producer in Gevrey-Chambertin
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SOMMELIER SELECTION, ‘LAST FEW’ AND GIFTS
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