Domaine Taupenot-Merme Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 'la Combe d'Orveau'
- Burgundy, France
Another richly satisfying range of wines from Romain, who continues to craft wines of structure, clear vineyard expression and complexity from an exciting array of vineyards. The wines are high class examples of their appellations but still offer good value. Romain told us that despite the stress on the vines due to nearly four weeks of temperatures above 35 degrees, there were (just) sufficient bursts of rain to ensure balanced ripening. This led to a good number of small, healthy, concentrated berries, with harvest beginning on 4th September and concluding ten days later. This early picking has ensured wines with plenty of flesh but also freshness, as the decrease in acidity from the must to finished wine was limited, so they are balanced with pH at 3.5 – 3.65, and alcohols at 13.2-13.8. Romain describes the vintage as “gourmandise”, but not as much as 2015, as has more freshness. The wines are juicy and fruitful with sophisticated structure and good ageing potential. New oak is at 40% maximum for grand crus, 25-30% for premier crus, and 20% for village wines.
Fine, plump mid-purple colour. The bouquet is balanced and attractive, does not show over-ripeness. Deep full raspberry, a few peach notes, the oak showing up in the background but only in balance with the oak as the fruit surges through at the back. Excellent finish. Predominantly red fruit. 92-95/100, Jasper Morris MW
The 2018 Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d'Orveau 1er Cru has a well-defined bouquet of red cherry, cranberry and crushed stone aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, very good acidity and a gorgeous, silky-smooth finish infused with impressive mineralité. An excellent Chambolle-Musigny from Romain Taupenot. 92-94/100, Neal Martin, Vinous
La Combe d'Orveau is one of the few lieux-dits in Burgundy that can be a village wine, a Premier Cru or a Grand Cru. This is the first of the three, picked very late on September 19th because of the coolness of the site. Despite what you might expect, it's not jammy in the slightest, showing hedonistic red fruit sweetness, sappy minerality and finely integrated 20% new wood. 95/100, Tim Atkin MW
SOMMELIER SELECTION, ‘LAST FEW’ AND GIFTS
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