Domaine Taupenot-Merme Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru
- Burgundy, France
Another richly satisfying range of wines from Romain, who continues to craft wines of structure, clear vineyard expression and complexity from an exciting array of vineyards. The wines are high class examples of their appellations but still offer good value. Romain told us that despite the stress on the vines due to nearly four weeks of temperatures above 35 degrees, there were (just) sufficient bursts of rain to ensure balanced ripening. This led to a good number of small, healthy, concentrated berries, with harvest beginning on 4th September and concluding ten days later. This early picking has ensured wines with plenty of flesh but also freshness, as the decrease in acidity from the must to finished wine was limited, so they are balanced with pH at 3.5 – 3.65, and alcohols at 13.2-13.8. Romain describes the vintage as “gourmandise”, but not as much as 2015, as has more freshness. The wines are juicy and fruitful with sophisticated structure and good ageing potential. New oak is at 40% maximum for grand crus, 25-30% for premier crus, and 20% for village wines.
Expresses darker, wilder Morey character (Romain argues the vineyard should be “Mazoyeres Saint Denis”). The nose offers sauvage, black fruits, black truffle, black coffee, black treacle and a twist of smoke, black (charred) logs and smoked charcuterie. Palate has much of the same but also a refreshing backbone of juicy but strict acidity which really pushes the minerality to the front palate and carries the salinity the finish. More buttoned up than the Charmes for now, this is a keeper. Tom, Wine Guru
The 2018 Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru needs a lot of coaxing, but it is worth waiting as it reveals ebullient blackberry, raspberry, crushed stone and light truffle aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, a superb bead of acidity and a very intense, quite structured finish. Romain Taupenot opined that this is closing down as winter falls, and I can see that, but it will ultimately turn into a very serious Mazoyères-Chambertin. 95-97/100, Neal Martin, Vinous
Fine mid purple with a fresher crunchier nose than the Charmes. Superbly rich fruit, ripe raspberry, with the structure at the back which was not visible in the Charmes. A pure dense ripe fruit of considerable quality, with the fruit reaching out at the back. 94-96/100, Jasper Morris MW
Mazoyères should be a Morey-St-Denis Grand Cru,' says Romain Taupenot, controversially claiming this southern corner of Gevrey-Chambertin for his own village. He's one of the few producers to make a Mazoyères as well as a Charmes-Chambertin and the former is always a little better in my view, with darker fruit flavours, more concentration, sappy acidity and notes of clove and vanilla spices. 96/100, Tim Atkin MW
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