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Domaine Taupenot-Merme Saint Romain
- Burgundy, France
Another richly satisfying range of wines from Romain, who continues to craft wines of structure, clear vineyard expression and complexity from an exciting array of vineyards. The wines are high class examples of their appellations but still offer good value. Romain told us that despite the stress on the vines due to nearly four weeks of temperatures above 35 degrees, there were (just) sufficient bursts of rain to ensure balanced ripening. This led to a good number of small, healthy, concentrated berries, with harvest beginning on 4th September and concluding ten days later. This early picking has ensured wines with plenty of flesh but also freshness, as the decrease in acidity from the must to finished wine was limited, so they are balanced with pH at 3.5 – 3.65, and alcohols at 13.2-13.8. Romain describes the vintage as “gourmandise”, but not as much as 2015, as has more freshness. The wines are juicy and fruitful with sophisticated structure and good ageing potential. New oak is at 40% maximum for grand crus, 25-30% for premier crus, and 20% for village wines.
The analysis (13.6 ABV, 3.5pH) makes this resemble a grand cru on paper, with Romain admitting that a decade ago he would not have imagined it likely to see this level of balance and textural richness from a Saint Romain. However one upside of climate change is that cooler sites like this can now achieve full ripeness and plusher tannins, if picked a little later (as this was). There is a touch of bread dough and crushed velvet, with pastille-like red and black fruits and sous bois and five spice notes. There is a crunchy edge to the fruit on the palate, a herbaceous lift, and nicely refined tannins. This is a really confident and exciting wine which offers terrific value for money. Tom, Wine Guru
Attractive lighter pink purple colour. Very pretty fruit, floral notes, has stayed fresh. Leaner on the palate, good acidity, no more than middling bodied but that’s sort of the point for red St Romain. Attractive finish. 13.6 though, which is surely unusual for St-Romain! 87-90/100, Jasper Morris MW
|Wine Type||Red wines|
SOMMELIER SELECTION, ‘LAST FEW’ AND GIFTS
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