The Mastrojanni Estate is situated in the south-east corner of the Montalcino region, set apart up a dirt road from the village of Castelnuovo dell'Abate. The wines are traditional and terroir-driven and the winery eschews the use of barriques as one might expect from such traditionalists. Having been purchased by coffee giants Illy, the estate has enjoyed even greater success in recent years and is now rated in the top 10 in the region.
There is plenty of ripe fruit in the bottle but the wines also have a savoury sophistication and retain a freshness and vivacity in later years after their more initially-exuberant peers have faded. Indeed, Nicolas Belfrage states that the single vineyard Riserva, Schiena d'Asino is 'at its peak, to die for...the 1990 was one of the finest Brunellos I have ever tasted'.