I love champagne and I love English fizz – and long gone are the days when you wouldn’t dare mention both in the same sentence. We Brits can hold our heads up: much of what we make is world-class.

I’m delighted, then, that thanks to Honest Grapes, we can feature here one of my all-time favourite English sparkling wine producers – Ambriel in West Sussex, founded and run by Charles and Wendy Outhwaite, huge fans of the Speccie. Sometimes, though, only champagne will do, and in this Battle of the Bubbles we’ve three first-rate grower champagnes that are more than a match for Grandes Marques.

The Ambriel Huzzah Rosé MV (1), a multi-vintage blend of Pinot Noir (mainly), Chardonnay (some) and Pinot Meunier (a splash), is a favourite of Mrs Ray. She loves its pale salmon hue, its weight and texture, its creamy mousse and its hints of crushed raspberries and strawberries. I love that she can see off a bottle on her own without any help. ‘What’s a champagne stopper?’ she asks. I’m so proud of her. £32.50.

The Ambriel English Reserve MV (2), my pick of the Ambriel range, must surely be England’s only single estate demi-sec. A Pinot Noir-led blend aged for seven years on the lees, it has a dosage of 32g per litre, the extra sweetness giving depth, richness, texture and delight. It’s not lusciously sweet, just sweeter than usual, making it the perfect partner for fruit tarts, wedding cakes and carefree summer picnics. Ideal for effervescent elevenses too. £33.50.

The 2018 Ambriel Wendling Blanc de Blancs (3) is a bona fide Spectator scoop. Yet to hit the market, it’s only available through these pages (until the end of May). Made entirely from Chardonnay and aged for more than five years, it’s dry but rich and concentrated with a zingy freshness and bursts of lemon sherbet. It’s gorgeous. Wendling is Wendy’s hitherto secret nickname, and she’s gorgeous too. £34.50.

As for the champagnes, the Maison Hubain Paul Augustine Brut NV (4) from Jonquery near Châtillon-sur-Marne is all about charm. An equal blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier, it’s fresh, light, honeyed and citrusy and a delight to have frothing in one’s glass. £28 down from £34.

The Pol Couronne Brut NV (5) is the Honest Grapes house pour. Every time they hold a blind tasting to find another, it comes top. I can see why. An equal blend of the three classic grapes, it’s fresh and honeyed, with marzipan, grapefruit and baked apple all deliciously intertwined. Neighbours John and Lis kindly helped us polish off the bottle, professing it the best fizz they’d ever had. £32 down from £35.

From Avize in the Côtes des Blancs, the Frerejean Frères 1er Cru Extra Brut NV (6) is serious fare. A moitié-moitié blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, it’s late disgorged and appetisingly weighty and textured. Run by brothers Guillaume, Rodolphe and Richard, Frerejean Frères remains true to its small-scale roots but has a growing reputation in France and was official supplier to the 2022 Michelin Awards. £44 down from £52.50.

I include the 2010 Ambriel Cloud 10 (7) because I love it and because everyone should buy everything in magnums. Wendy and Charles have gone all This is Spinal Tap by taking Cloud 9 up to 10, but really up to 11 for that extra push over the cliff. And it’s a corker, a Chardonnay-rich blend aged for 11 years (see?), it’s full of fresh and baked apple, a touch of cream and something fruity and candied. £99.

Let the Champenois have the final word with the Frerejean Frères 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut NV (8). 100 per cent Chardonnay, from premier cru vineyards only, it’s light, elegant and stylish with caressingly gentle mousse and a creamy, toasty finish. Gosh, it’s good. £65 down from £68.90.

Delivery, as ever is free.

Jonathan Ray for the Spectator Wine Club