Spectator Wine Club: Battle of the Bubbles French Case & Frerejean Frères, Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut

"I love champagne and I love English fizz – and long gone are the days when you wouldn’t dare mention both in the same sentence. We Brits can hold our heads up: much of what we make is world-class. I’m delighted, then, that thanks to Honest Grapes, we can feature here one of my all-time favourite English sparkling wine producers – Ambriel in West Sussex, founded and run by Charles and Wendy Outhwaite, huge fans of the Speccie. Sometimes, though, only champagne will do, and in this Battle of the Bubbles we’ve three first-rate grower champagnes that are more than a match for Grandes Marques.

As for the champagnes, the Maison Hubain Paul Augustine Brut NV (4) from Jonquery near Châtillon-sur-Marne is all about charm. An equal blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier, it’s fresh, light, honeyed and citrusy and a delight to have frothing in one’s glass. £28 down from £34.

The Pol Couronne Brut NV (5) is the Honest Grapes house pour. Every time they hold a blind tasting to find another, it comes top. I can see why. An equal blend of the three classic grapes, it’s fresh and honeyed, with marzipan, grapefruit and baked apple all deliciously intertwined. Neighbours John and Lis kindly helped us polish off the bottle, professing it the best fizz they’d ever had. £32 down from £35.

From Avize in the Côtes des Blancs, the Frerejean Frères 1er Cru Extra Brut NV (6) is serious fare. A moitié-moitié blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, it’s late disgorged and appetisingly weighty and textured. Run by brothers Guillaume, Rodolphe and Richard, Frerejean Frères remains true to its small-scale roots but has a growing reputation in France and was official supplier to the 2022 Michelin Awards. £44 down from £52.50.

Let the Champenois have the final word with the Frerejean Frères 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut NV (8). 100 per cent Chardonnay, from premier cru vineyards only, it’s light, elegant and stylish with caressingly gentle mousse and a creamy, toasty finish. Gosh, it’s good. £65 down from £68.90."
Jonathan Ray, The Spectator Wine Club

In the case

• 2x Maison Huiban, Paul Augustine, Brut, NV (75cl)

• 2x Pol Couronne, Brut, Nv (75cl)

• 2x Frerejean Frères Premier Cru Extra Brut, NV (75cl)

• 2x Frerejean Frères, Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut, Nv (75cl)