Patrizia Cencioni, Brunello Di Montalcino, 2017
Patrizia Cencioni, Brunello Di Montalcino, 2017
- Red Still
- Sangiovese
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This female star-studded cast of winemakers is an admirable family-run operation that dates back to 1989 when lifeforce of the estate, Patrizia, decided she wanted to make Brunello. What was once a deteriorating property is now a winery buzzing with life and passion. Beyond the hectares of land freckled with olive groves are Sangiovese vines dedicated to producing Brunello di Montalcino.
They aim for the highest quality, with all vineyards meant for Brunello production, whilst they also produce a hidden gem Rosso here that is effectively a "baby Brunello" for early drinking. The vineyards can be found in the southeast at a high altitude with soil composed of volcanic rock and compacted clay (or Galestro). They are harvested by hand and then fermented with indigenous yeasts.
What the critics say:
"The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is youthfully dark and inward, but coaxing reveals a bouquet of crushed ashen stone, dusty florals, sour cherries and a hint of animal musk. There’s a pliant, plush texture that communicates elegance, as saline-tinged red and hints of blue fruit flesh out across the palate. While structured, this retains energy through the finale, where notes of salted licorice, violets and a twang of tart citrus keep the mouth watering for more. The 2017 may not have the depth of the best vintages, but it is superbly balanced and should drink beautifully after only a short stay in the cellar."
"A rich Brunello, like many 2017s, but shows some form and tension at the same time, with a plum, chocolate and berry aftertaste. Hints of walnuts and cedar, too. Give it time to soften. Drink after 2023."
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