Clos Marey-Monge Nicholas-Joseph, Château de Pommard, 2021

Chateau de Pommard is in fact Burguny’s largest monopole (walled vineyard) with an imposing two metre high stone wall encircling the estate. Whilst all technically one vineyard, through detailed soil analysis, seven different terroirs have been identified and each is now vinified separately, alongside the Clos du Monopole which is comprised of a blend of each of the seven sites. Winemaking has been taking place here since 900 AD! Whilst viticulture is truly ancient, the most recent owners of the estate are Michael Baum and his wife Julie, who took over in 2014 and have been on a mission to renovate the winery, vineyards and winemaking practices.

Biodynamic since 2016, 2021 is winemaker Paul Negrerig’s first vintage at the helm (although he has been with the team for three years). Paul says the vintage reminds him a little of 2011, a year which was under-rated but is now highly regarded and drinking exceptionally. The production levels here are small – in the case of the Simone and 75 rangs, only 700 bottles or so have been made in 2021 and vines range up to around 90 years old. We are most certainly into Vieilles Vignes territory! As mentioned, the soil analysis has allowed the property to identify the various plots, some of which are clay dominated (in the case of ‘Chantreie’, a similar level to that seen in Domaine de la Romanee’s Richebourg plot), whilst some lean toward more stones. 75 rangs, or 75 rows (of vines) is situated above an old water source which has deposited these minerals and it most certainly shone through in the final wine. Each really speaks of its terroir and is a vinous journey to behold. Common to many growers for the 2021 vintage, Chateau du Pommard pulled back on the new oak (30% down to 20%) but left the wines in barrel for fifteen months rather than the normal twelve because Paul felt a slightly extended élévage would assist the development of greater density and aromatic complexity.

Tom Harrow, Honest Grapes
a 3ha plot, in the north-west corner of the vineyard which produces 4000 bottles, on red clay and limestone-rich soil. The vines here were planted in 1940 and 2001 so you get a really compelling combination of younger vine energy and old vine complexity.
Nose draws you in with perfectly ripe brambly red and black fruit. There is a clear savoury, mineral edge this time around which brings a real fresh lift to the fruit and on the palate is just stunning. Full of energy and concentration, like a compressed spring ready to rebound! Hints of clove and with a dark chocolate bitterness which guides you through the palate to the perfectly ripe but refined and chiselled tannins. The floral and mineral driven finish is really very nice. Amazing. Arguably a favourite cuvée