El Enemigo, Chardonnay, 2023
El Enemigo, Chardonnay, 2023
- 75cl
- 13.5%
- White Still
- Chardonnay
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Optimal drinking window: 2026 - 2030
El Enemigo has become one of Argentina's most intriguing projects, the brainchild of Alejandro Vigil and Adrianna Catena. Their 2023 Chardonnay comes from high-altitude Mendoza vineyards where cool nights preserve the grape's natural acidity and elegance.
We find this a Chardonnay that speaks more of place than of winemaker intervention. Stone fruit and citrus dance with subtle mineral undertones, whilst judicious oak adds texture without overwhelming the fruit. This is Argentine Chardonnay with serious intent.
The Chardonnay comes from high-altitude vineyards in Mendoza's Tupungato district, planted at around 1,200 metres above sea level. The combination of intense daytime sun and cool mountain nights creates ideal conditions for Chardonnay, preserving natural acidity whilst allowing full flavour development. Alluvial soils with limestone deposits provide excellent drainage and contribute to the wine's mineral backbone. The extreme diurnal temperature variation is key to the wine's balance and precision.
Mendoza is Argentina's most important wine region, responsible for roughly 70% of the country's production. The province's high-altitude vineyards, particularly around Tupungato and the Uco Valley, have revolutionised Argentine white wine quality over the past two decades. Mendoza's desert climate with irrigation from Andean snowmelt allows for precise control over vine stress and harvest timing. The region's success with international varieties like Chardonnay has helped establish Argentina as a serious player in premium white wine production.
The 2023 vintage in Mendoza arrived with its own particular rhythm. Spring brought adequate rainfall to replenish the soils after several drier years, though producers had to stay alert during flowering to manage the increased humidity. Summer unfolded with the kind of temperature swings that make Mendoza tick: hot days balanced by those crucial cool nights that flow down from the Andes, preserving acidity whilst allowing phenolic ripening to proceed at its own pace.
What emerged from the cellars shows Mendoza at its most expressive. The Malbecs display that wonderful combination of concentrated dark fruit and mineral backbone that comes when the vines have enough water early on but must work a bit harder later in the season. Cabernet Sauvignon benefited particularly well from the conditions, producing wines with structure and depth that should reward patience. Most 2023s are drinking beautifully now, offering immediate pleasure, though the better examples will happily cellar until 2035 or beyond.
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El Enemigo
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