Saumur Rouge, Domaine Guiberteau, 2021

The entry-level village Saumur Rouge is aged in stainless steel and offers something so much more classical and interesting than its modest price point would suggest.

The nose is open and pure, with lovely dark fruit and some classic Cabernet Franc florals - mainly violets - whilst the palate is delightfully silky and lifted. Whilst Romain is most celebrated for his whites, his reds are staggeringly good too, and "capture a unique expression of Cabernet Franc that surpasses all expectations", following a "departure for the real or supposed spirit of Saumur, with a quality of fruit that puts them alongside the greatest wine in France" according to Bettane & Desseauve.

Here one sees the influence of both Clos Rougeard and other fabled Loire producer Thierry Germain, whom Romain has also worked with.