Tenuta dell'Ornellaia, Masseto, 2023
Tenuta dell'Ornellaia, Masseto, 2023
- 75cl
- 14.5%
- Red Still
- Merlot
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Drinking window: 2032 - 2055
Est. delivery in 2027
Masseto is, without question, the most famous Merlot produced outside of Pomerol — and one of the most discussed wines in Italy, full stop. Made from a single 11-hectare plot of blue clay on the Bolgheri coast by Tenuta dell'Ornellaia, it has carved out a reputation entirely on its own terms: not Super Tuscan by committee, but singular by conviction.
The 2023 vintage brought warm, dry conditions tempered by cool coastal nights, producing fruit of extraordinary concentration without sacrificing the iron-edged precision that makes Masseto Masseto rather than just a very expensive Merlot.
What the critics say:
"Intense, dark and meaty style with vibrant elegance of balsamic whiffs, clove and slight florals, with a mix of plums and cassis and graphite minerality in depth. The attack is impressive for its suppleness and silky texture, with elegant tannins, graceful brilliant acidity and toasty flavors of cocoa-milk, sweet tobacco and fruits. Endless aftertaste. Best after two-three years but drinkable now as well."
The Masseto vineyard sits on a single hillside plot above the Ornellaia estate, distinguished by a remarkable vein of blue-grey clay — galestro and alberese mixed with this unusually rich clay subsoil — that retains water during summer drought and gives the wine its characteristic iron and mineral backbone. Altitude ranges from roughly 80 to 120 metres above sea level, and the proximity to the Tyrrhenian Sea moderates temperatures significantly, preserving acidity even in hot vintages. This clay is genuinely the making of the wine: Merlot planted elsewhere on the estate produces something fine but categorically different.
Masseto is produced within the Bolgheri DOC on the Tuscan coast, a relatively young appellation that was elevated to DOC status in 1983 and has since become synonymous with internationally-styled reds built on Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot. Bolgheri Rosso DOC permits a wide range of Bordeaux varieties, and its rules are broadly permissive — the real differentiation here is producer ambition and site quality, not regulatory prescription. Compared to its Chianti Classico neighbours inland, Bolgheri is warmer, flatter in places, and far more Bordeaux-facing in both grape selection and winemaking philosophy.
The 2023 vintage in Tuscany delivered precisely what nobody expected after a challenging start. Spring brought excessive rainfall that had growers fretting about disease pressure, whilst a scorching July tested even the most experienced vignerons. Yet August's return to more moderate temperatures, combined with crucial diurnal temperature swings, allowed the vines to regain their composure just when it mattered most. The harvest stretched longer than usual, with producers able to pick at optimal ripeness rather than racing against the clock.
What emerged from the cellars shows Tuscany's remarkable ability to transform adversity into opportunity. The Sangiovese displays a freshness we haven't seen in recent warm years, with that characteristic cherry brightness sitting beautifully alongside more structured tannins. Super Tuscans from the coast fared particularly well, where maritime influences helped moderate the summer extremes. These aren't blockbuster wines built for decades of cellaring, but rather Tuscan reds with an approachable charm that makes them dangerously drinkable now whilst still having the backbone to reward five to eight years of patience.
OUR GROWERS
Tenuta dell'Ornellaia
