Volnay Premier Cru 'En Champans', Domaine de Montille, 2023
Volnay Premier Cru 'En Champans', Domaine de Montille, 2023
- 75cl
- 13.5%
- Red Still
- Pinot Noir
- Organic
- Biodynamic
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Optimal drinking window: 2028 - 2044
"A complex interplay of steep, sandy limestone vineyards and marl soils delivers a wine of notable finesse. Over one-third whole cluster fermentation brings bright raspberry and crunchy cherry fruit, accented with spice and silky tannins. Balanced acidity and freshness make this a beautiful, early-access Volnay."
Our note
The 2023 vintage reflects a year of moderate warmth with consistent sunshine, leading to steady, well-paced ripening. Although temperatures weren’t extreme, the shift to warmer nights and milder days contributed to extended growing periods.
This translated into wines that are strikingly fresh, with lower alcohol levels, vivid acidity, and vibrant character—brighter and more approachable compared to recent years. Comparisons to the 2017 vintage are apt, showcasing elegance and precision.
The domaine features as one of the Top 10 Côte de Beaune Red Wine, and White Wine Producers in Tim Atkin's Burgundy 2023 Special Report.
What the critics say:
"50% whole bunch vinification. A lighter ruby purple. The fruit and floral characters combined beautifully on the nose. This dances across the palate, showing a little more barrel at the finish, but that is temporary. An excellent red berry fruit surges across the finish line. Tasted Oct 2024 ****"
"There were two tanks, and Brian had to moderate his whole cluster usage for space: one was one-third stems and the other one-half. The tannins have an appealing rustic edge at the moment, accentuated by raspy acidity. But, the palate is plump with red and black fruits that stick. Give it a few years to turn on its full charm."
En Champans sits on steep slopes with sandy limestone soils over marl, creating excellent drainage while retaining enough moisture for the vines. The elevation and south-east exposure provide optimal ripening conditions, whilst the limestone imparts that mineral backbone Volnay is prized for. These soils naturally produce wines of finesse rather than power.
Volnay Premier Cru represents some of Burgundy's most elegant red wines, with En Champans among the commune's most respected climats. The appellation sits between Pommard and Meursault, producing Pinot Noirs known for their silky texture and perfumed character rather than the muscular style of neighbouring villages. Premier Cru status requires stricter yield limits and higher minimum alcohol levels than village-level Volnay.
The 2023 growing season in Burgundy unfolded like a cautionary tale about climate change, then pulled off a last-minute redemption that left everyone rather stunned. After a warm, early spring pushed budbreak ahead of schedule, the vines endured a thoroughly miserable summer of persistent rain and cool temperatures that had growers muttering darkly about rot and dilution. Just when things looked dire, September arrived with glorious sunshine and dry winds that concentrated the fruit and saved the harvest—though not without some frantic sorting in the cellars.
What emerged from this meteorological rollercoaster are wines that wear their vintage on their sleeve: Pinot Noirs with bright, singing acidity and red fruit that feels almost crystalline in its purity, whilst the Chardonnays show remarkable tension and mineral drive. The reds are drinking beautifully now if you fancy immediate pleasure, but we suspect the better villages and premiers crus will reward patience over the next decade. It's not a powerhouse vintage, but there's something genuinely charming about these wines—they remind us why we fell for Burgundy in the first place.
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