Brigaldara, Picol de Legno, Garganega, 2022
Brigaldara, Picol de Legno, Garganega, 2022
- 75cl
- 12%
- White Still
- Garganega
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Optimal drinking window: 2026 - 2029
Est. delivery mid-November 2026
Brigaldara is a name most people associate with Amarone, but the Cesari family know Veneto's white side just as intimately, and Picol de Legno is their proof. Made from Garganega, the grape behind Soave, this is a wine that trades power for poise: pale gold in the glass, it offers apple, citrus peel, and that distinctive almond bitterness on the finish that marks out good Garganega from the merely pleasant.
There's a gentle waxiness to the texture that keeps it interesting rather than simply refreshing, and it drinks well young. We'd pour it slightly cooler than you think necessary and reach for it on a warm afternoon when something structured but undemanding is called for.
This is a wine built for its youth, with the apple and citrus character at its most vivid right now. Over the next year or so expect the fruit to soften slightly and the textural, waxy side to become more pronounced.
What the critics say:
"The 2022 Garganega Picol de Legno opens in the glass with a tropical blend of floral tones and citrus, giving way to sweet smoke. Soothingly round in feel, this washes across the palate with a mineral-tinged blend of green apples and hints of lime. The Picol de Legno finishes with admirable length and incredible freshness, leaving a saline note that lingers on. "
Tasting Notes
AppearancePale straw gold with a bright, clear rim.
NoseGreen apple and lemon peel sit alongside a faint waxy, floral lift. There's a whisper of almond that hints at what's to come on the palate.
PalateCrisp and clean, with orchard fruit and citrus pith carried on a lightly textured mid-palate. The acidity is firm without being sharp, giving it real drinkability.
FinishSaline and bittersweet, with that characteristic almond snap lingering.
Overall impressionAn honest, food-friendly white with more personality than its easy-drinking style first suggests.
Food Pairings
In the Veneto, this would happily sit alongside baccalà mantecato on grilled polenta, or a simple risotto with river fish from the Adige. Fresh lake fish, fried moeche crab, or a plate of soppressa and local cheeses would all do the job. It's a wine built for the table rather than solo sipping, cutting through richness without overwhelming delicate dishes.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at 10-12°C, straight from the fridge with perhaps ten minutes to open up. No decanting required. A simple white wine glass or tulip-shaped glass is ideal, nothing too flamboyant.
The vineyards sit in the hills of Valpolicella Classico, where volcanic and calcareous soils lend minerality and lift to whatever is planted in them. Altitude and diurnal temperature swings help preserve the acidity that gives this wine its backbone. It's cooler, more marginal ground than much of the surrounding Veneto plain, which shows in the wine's freshness.
This wine is bottled outside of Soave DOC, Garganega's spiritual home, as an IGT Veronese, giving Brigaldara freedom to work the grape on their own terms without the formal constraints of that appellation. Soave remains the benchmark for Garganega, prized for its combination of generosity and almondy bite, and this wine shares that DNA while speaking with a distinctly Valpolicella accent.
The 2022 vintage in Veneto started with a deceptively mild winter, followed by a spring that threw curveballs at every turn. Early budbreak looked promising until late frosts in April caught some vineyards off guard, particularly in the hillier zones around Soave and Valpolicella. Summer brought the real drama: scorching temperatures and prolonged drought stressed the vines something fierce, forcing growers to dig deep into their bag of tricks with strategic leaf management and whatever irrigation they could muster.
What emerged was a vintage of surprising concentration, though yields dropped considerably across the board. Garganega in Soave developed intense minerality alongside ripe stone fruit flavours, while Corvina and the Valpolicella blend gained serious structure without losing their characteristic bright acidity. The reds show more muscle than usual but retain their drinkability—think of them as the athletic cousin of a typical Veneto vintage. Most wines are drinking beautifully now, though the better Amarones will reward patience until 2028 and beyond.
FAQs
What does this wine taste like?
Crisp apple and lemon peel with a waxy texture and a distinctive bitter almond finish.
When should I drink this wine?
Now until 2029, while the fruit is fresh and the finish still has lift.
What food pairs well with this wine?
Fresh fish, risotto, baccalà, or simple cured meats and cheeses from the Veneto table.
How should I serve it?
Chilled to 10-12°C in a simple white wine glass, no decanting needed.
Is this a wine worth cellaring?
No, this is one for drinking young while its freshness is at its peak.
What grape is this made from?
Garganega, the same grape behind Soave, grown here in the hills of Valpolicella.
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