Clos Des Lambrays Grand Cru, Domaine des Lambrays, 2021
Clos Des Lambrays Grand Cru, Domaine des Lambrays, 2021
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It’s all change again at the domaine, with Jacques Devauges crossing the road from Clos de Tart to take the helm, after Boris Champy’s brief tenure, following Thierry Brouin’s 38 years as winemaker. Does billionaire owner Bernard Arnault have another acquisition in the region pending? The rumour mill was certainly hard at work at time of writing…
What the critics say:
"I tasted four different cuvées, all of which had been vinified with 100% whole bunches, and then the final blend. La Plante Dessous seemed useful as a blending component but not quite Grand cru on its own. The other three were in a different league: Cerisier is not extra concentrated in colour but a fine red purple. The nose has much more elegance and nobility and shows the whole bunch more. There is unquestionably a cherry taste to the fruit, fresh white pepper, good acidity and fine length. Much more noble. Les 50 Ouvrées (Milieu) offers a little more depth to the vivid purple colour The nose shows more weight too with the fruit slight taking the lead over the vinification. A vast sweet red fruit mouthful here, cherries again but now with a denser raspberry note behind. Complex long aftertaste. Les 50 Ouvrées (Dessus) is bright crimson purple in colour. A vigorous solid nose, less evidence of the whole bunches (100%). Less flamboyant yet with great density. This could make the heart of the cuvée with the cherries from the others to add a top note. Very sensual, undoubtedly grand cru with a long rich red fruit finish elongated by the whole bunch vinification. Limestone tension, slower ripening here. And now for the blend. A lovely even ruby colour across the glass. The bouquet just starts to peep out slowly, 80% whole bunch as Plante Dessus and Milieu were destemmed in 2021. Just a little light pepper seasoning the deep red berry fruit which has a multiplicity of nuances. Overall, the wine has a magical sense of harmony but is the opposite of monolithic, showing waves of flavour and exquisite detail. If this continues to grow in the barrel, as Jacques suspects it will, it could well be a five star wine. Drink from 2028-2038. Tasted: November 2022."
"Deep-mid ruby. Red cherries, strawberry and rose. A minty freshness too. Plenty of spice and exoticism too. Brisk acidity. Tannins and structure are affirmed without being deafening. An admirable mix of floral character, freshness and complexity, which makes sense as the sum of its parts. Elegant, concentrated, complete and long."
