Clos Marey-Monge Monopole, Château de Pommard, 2021

Chateau de Pommard is in fact Burguny’s largest monopole (walled vineyard) with an imposing two metre high stone wall encircling the estate. Whilst all technically one vineyard, through detailed soil analysis, seven different terroirs have been identified and each is now vinified separately, alongside the Clos du Monopole which is comprised of a blend of each of the seven sites. Winemaking has been taking place here since 900 AD! Whilst viticulture is truly ancient, the most recent owners of the estate are Michael Baum and his wife Julie, who took over in 2014 and have been on a mission to renovate the winery, vineyards and winemaking practices.

Biodynamic since 2016, 2021 is winemaker Paul Negrerig’s first vintage at the helm (although he has been with the team for three years). Paul says the vintage reminds him a little of 2011, a year which was under-rated but is now highly regarded and drinking exceptionally. The production levels here are small – in the case of the Simone and 75 rangs, only 700 bottles or so have been made in 2021 and vines range up to around 90 years old. We are most certainly into Vieilles Vignes territory! As mentioned, the soil analysis has allowed the property to identify the various plots, some of which are clay dominated (in the case of ‘Chantreie’, a similar level to that seen in Domaine de la Romanee’s Richebourg plot), whilst some lean toward more stones. 75 rangs, or 75 rows (of vines) is situated above an old water source which has deposited these minerals and it most certainly shone through in the final wine. Each really speaks of its terroir and is a vinous journey to behold. Common to many growers for the 2021 vintage, Chateau du Pommard pulled back on the new oak (30% down to 20%) but left the wines in barrel for fifteen months rather than the normal twelve because Paul felt a slightly extended élévage would assist the development of greater density and aromatic complexity.

Tom Harrow, Honest Grapes
A blend of each of the above plots, between 2017-2019 it represented 50% of the vineyard’s production but since then it is a little less. Each part of the vineyard is represented but in different percentages vintage dependent. The remainder are bottled as individual cuvées.
Classic Pommard nose – dark fruit, earthy spices and once again those herbal hints breaking through. This is the most compact and densely packed of the chateau’s wines and will need time to unwind and let all the nuances of it’s component parts to unfurl – but what a treat it will be when this happens. So much to look forward to! The acidity is well rounded with a lovely depth and beautiful balance. The palate is very well judged on tannins which are the firmest of the cuvées, yet without any trace of rusticity or under ripeness. Notes of bitter chocolate wrap everything up. What more could you ask for?