Maison De Montille, Chablis Premier Cru 'Les Fourchaumes', Domaine de Montille, 2021

De Montille is best known for its grand Burgundian reds, so when the domaine turned its attention to Chablis, eyebrows were raised. Rightly so, as it turns out. Les Fourchaumes is one of the most reliable premier crus in Chablis — a north-facing slope on the right bank of the Serein that catches enough sun to ripen fully while holding onto that razor-sharp, oyster-shell mineral quality Chablis lovers actually drink it for. The 2021 vintage brought a cool, precise growing season, and in a wine like this, that translates to nervy, focused fruit rather than richness.

We find this a wonderfully pure expression of the appellation — white peach, green apple, and a citrus-driven backbone, with that characteristic flinty, almost saline edge that sets Chablis apart from anywhere else in Burgundy.