Patrizia Cencioni, Brunello Di Montalcino, 2018
Patrizia Cencioni, Brunello Di Montalcino, 2018
- 75cl
- 14%
- Red Still
- Sangiovese
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Optimal drinking window: Now - 2035
Patrizia Cencioni crafts this Brunello from her small estate in Montalcino, where traditional winemaking meets careful attention to detail. This 2018 shows the classic Sangiovese character we love in Brunello: that interplay between dark cherry fruit and the earthy, mineral backbone that comes from the region's galestro and alberese soils.
Eight years on, this wine has found its stride. The tannins have softened without losing their structure, and the secondary complexity is beginning to emerge alongside the primary fruit.
This 2018 is currently in its sweet spot, having moved beyond primary fruit into more complex secondary development. Over the next 5-7 years, expect the cherry fruit to become more integrated whilst earthy, leathery, and truffle-like characteristics develop further. The tannins will continue to soften and the wine will gain additional depth and complexity through the early 2030s. After 2035, the fruit will begin to fade gradually. The mineral backbone will likely persist longest, providing structure even as other elements evolve.
What the critics say:
"The 2018 Brunello Di Montalcino reveals layers of cherry licorice, leather, dark minerals, and smoke. It is full-bodied, with iron richness, and meaty red plum, mocha, and dried herbs. It has ripe tannins, with a fresh lift of acidity, and is a nicely balanced wine with a fairly long finish. Drink 2025-2035."
Tasting Notes
AppearanceDeep garnet with brick highlights at the rim.
NoseDark cherry and blackberry mingle with dried herbs, tobacco leaf, and a hint of leather. There's an underlying earthiness with touches of cedar and sweet spice from the oak ageing. The aromatics are well-integrated and inviting.
PalateMedium to full-bodied with excellent structure from fine-grained tannins that coat the mouth without being aggressive. Red and dark cherry flavours dominate, supported by dried Mediterranean herbs, mineral notes, and a subtle smokiness. The acidity is bright and keeps everything in balance.
FinishLong and persistent with lingering cherry, herbs, and a mineral echo that speaks to the galestro soils.
Overall impressionA classic Brunello showing both power and elegance, with the integration that comes from proper cellaring.
Food Pairings
In Montalcino, this would be the natural partner for wild boar ragu with pici pasta, the hand-rolled local specialty that captures the rich sauce perfectly. Locals also pair aged Brunello with bistecca alla fiorentina, the massive T-bone steaks grilled over chestnut wood that are a Tuscan institution. Game dishes feature heavily, particularly cinghiale in dolceforte (wild boar in sweet and sour sauce) and lepre in umido (braised hare). The wine's earthy character complements aged pecorino di pienza, the local sheep's cheese aged in caves.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at 17-18°C to allow the complex aromatics to fully express themselves. Decant for 60-90 minutes to help integrate the tannins and open up the secondary characteristics. Use large Burgundy bowls or traditional Tuscan wine glasses with a wide rim to concentrate the aromatics. This wine benefits from breathing time, so open well before serving.
The Cencioni vineyards sit on Montalcino's characteristic mix of galestro (crumbly marl) and alberese (hard limestone) soils at around 350 metres elevation. This combination provides excellent drainage whilst retaining enough moisture for the vines during hot summers. The galestro contributes elegance and minerality, while the alberese adds structure and longevity to the wines. The south-facing slopes receive optimal sun exposure whilst benefiting from cooling breezes.
Brunello di Montalcino DOCG requires 100% Sangiovese grown within the commune of Montalcino, with a minimum of four years ageing before release. The regulations mandate at least two years in oak and four months in bottle, creating wines of exceptional depth and ageability. Montalcino's unique terroir and strict production rules have made it one of Italy's most prestigious appellations, consistently producing Sangiovese of remarkable power and elegance compared to other Tuscan zones.
The 2018 growing season in Tuscany served up drama worthy of a Renaissance plot. A wet spring had producers fretting about disease pressure, but summer heat arrived with perfect timing to dry things out and concentrate the fruit. The crucial factor proved to be autumn's extended dry spell, which allowed for leisurely harvest decisions and let each variety ripen at its own pace without the usual scramble against September storms.
What emerged from the cellars shows Tuscany at its most approachable. The Sangiovese displays that lovely balance of bright cherry fruit and earthy backbone that makes Chianti sing, whilst the international varieties found their footing beautifully in the coastal zones. These aren't the brooding, tannic monsters that demand a decade of patience, but wines with enough structure to age gracefully if you fancy waiting. Most are drinking beautifully now, though the finest examples from established producers will reward those who can resist temptation until the mid-2020s.
FAQs
What does this Brunello taste like?
Classic Sangiovese character with dark cherry, dried herbs, and earthy minerals. The tannins are firm but well-integrated, and there's a lovely persistence on the finish.
When should I drink this 2018 Brunello?
It's drinking beautifully now and will continue to develop complexity until the late 2030s. No need to wait, but it will reward patience.
What food pairs well with this wine?
Perfect with rich meat dishes like wild boar ragu, grilled steaks, or aged hard cheeses. The earthy character loves game and mushroom dishes too.
Should I decant this wine?
Yes, decant for 60-90 minutes before serving. This helps integrate the tannins and allows the complex aromatics to fully develop.
How does this compare to other Brunellos?
This is a traditional style that emphasises elegance over power, showing the classic interplay between fruit and earth that makes great Brunello so compelling.
Is this wine worth cellaring?
Absolutely. While approachable now, it will gain additional complexity over the next decade and remain at its peak until the late 2030s.
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