Savigny-Les-Beaune 'Vieilles Vignes' Blanc, Domaine Benoit Girardin, 2023
Savigny-Les-Beaune 'Vieilles Vignes' Blanc, Domaine Benoit Girardin, 2023
- 75cl
- 14%
- White Still
- Chardonnay
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Optimal drinking window: 2026 - 2032
"A more unusual white offering from Savigny, this cuvée is sourced from 35-year-old vines on limestone soils, lending it a taut minerality and cool-climate freshness. The nose is floral with subtle hints of white pepper and lime zest, while the palate combines structure, good acidity, and bright citrus notes, making it a lively, elegant wine."
Our note
Son of Yves and nephew of Vincent, Benoit Girardin has steadily carved out his own reputation and is already turning heads in the Parisian restaurant scene. 2023 was a standout vintage for Girardin, delivering both quantity and quality.
While white yields were typical, the reds saw an unprecedented abundance. The whites were harvested first, beginning on September 7th, with the reds following on September 10th. Whites show a harmonious balance between sugar and acidity, with greater maturity and slightly softer acidity compared to 2022. The reds are all 100% destemmed with no fining or filtration, while the whites retain purity and definition with meticulous filtration.
Right now the wine shows plenty of primary citrus and floral lift, with the white pepper note adding a savoury edge. Over the next two to three years, expect the fruit to settle and the limestone minerality to take a more central role.
Tasting Notes
AppearancePale gold with a greenish glint.
NoseFloral top notes give way to white pepper and lime zest, with a cool, stony undertone that hints at the limestone beneath.
PalateBright citrus and a firm, almost taut structure, with good acidity keeping everything focused rather than fleshy.
FinishLong, chalky, and refreshingly dry.
Overall impressionA lively, mineral-driven white that rewards attention rather than indulgence.
Food Pairings
In Savigny, this would happily sit alongside a plate of jambon persillé or a simple quenelle de brochet with beurre blanc, where the wine's acidity cuts through the richness. Local cheeses like a young Comté or a soft-rind Époisses, taken before it turns too pungent, also find a natural partner here. Burgundians would think nothing of pairing it with freshwater fish from the Saône, poached gently to let the wine's citrus and mineral notes shine through.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at around 11-12°C, cool but not icy, to let the citrus and floral notes stay distinct. No need to decant, though a few minutes in the glass helps the pepper notes open up. A tulip-shaped white Burgundy glass does the job nicely, neither too wide nor too narrow.
The vines sit on limestone soils typical of the Savigny-lès-Beaune hillsides, with 35 years of root growth giving them access to minerals that younger vines simply can't reach. This cooler, limestone-driven site keeps acidity fresh even in a warmer vintage like 2023, lending the wine its taut, saline quality. It's a terroir that favours precision over power, which is exactly what shows in the glass.
Savigny-lès-Beaune sits just north of Beaune and is predominantly planted to Pinot Noir, making white cuvées something of a rarity and, for those in the know, a bit of a treat. The appellation's wines are typically lighter and more aromatic than those of its grander neighbours like Pommard or Volnay, a reflection of its cooler, more varied terroir. Whites from here rarely get the attention of Meursault or Puligny-Montrachet, but the better examples offer similar freshness at a fraction of the price.
The 2023 growing season in Burgundy unfolded like a cautionary tale about climate change, then pulled off a last-minute redemption that left everyone rather stunned. After a warm, early spring pushed budbreak ahead of schedule, the vines endured a thoroughly miserable summer of persistent rain and cool temperatures that had growers muttering darkly about rot and dilution. Just when things looked dire, September arrived with glorious sunshine and dry winds that concentrated the fruit and saved the harvest—though not without some frantic sorting in the cellars.
What emerged from this meteorological rollercoaster are wines that wear their vintage on their sleeve: Pinot Noirs with bright, singing acidity and red fruit that feels almost crystalline in its purity, whilst the Chardonnays show remarkable tension and mineral drive. The reds are drinking beautifully now if you fancy immediate pleasure, but we suspect the better villages and premiers crus will reward patience over the next decade. It's not a powerhouse vintage, but there's something genuinely charming about these wines—they remind us why we fell for Burgundy in the first place.
FAQs
What does this wine taste like?
Taut and citrus-driven, with white pepper, lime zest, and a chalky, mineral finish.
When should I drink this wine?
It's drinking well now and will hold its freshness until around 2032.
What food should I pair it with?
Freshwater fish, charcuterie like jambon persillé, or a young Comté all work well.
How should I serve it?
Serve at 11-12°C in a white Burgundy glass; no decanting needed.
Is this a wine worth cellaring?
It's not built for decades of ageing, but a few years will add welcome complexity.
Why is a white from Savigny-lès-Beaune unusual?
The appellation is best known for Pinot Noir, so white cuvées like this one are a rare find from a region usually overshadowed by its red wine reputation.
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