Tom's Giro d'Italia Christmas Reds

Six wines, six regions, and a rather good excuse to eat and drink your way down Italy this Christmas. I’ve put together this case to showcase the country’s extraordinary range of reds, from the elegance of Barbaresco in the north to the dark, brooding Aglianico of Campania in the south. These are wines with proper character, from producers I rate highly, and they’ll do a fine job alongside the Christmas turkey, roast beef, a long lunch with friends or whatever ends up on the table. And with a magnum of Barbaresco to kick things off, we’re not doing things by halves.

We start in Piedmont with Castello di Neive’s Barbaresco Santo Stefano 2020, in magnum. Santo Stefano is one of the great vineyard sites of Barbaresco, and Nebbiolo from here brings fragrant red cherry, rose, spice and fine, grippy tannins. A wine with real poise and structure, and a magnum makes it all the more special for a festive gathering.

Heading east into Trentino, Tenuta San Leonardo’s San Leonardo 2020 is one of Italy’s great Bordeaux-inspired reds. Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère and Merlot come together in a wine that’s beautifully composed, with cassis, dark berries, cedar, herbs and a savoury, tobacco-like edge. The estate’s mountain-influenced vineyards give it freshness as well as depth. This is the bottle for roast beef or a proper piece of venison.

Next stop, Veneto, for La Giaretta’s 2020 I Quadretti Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore. Ripasso gets its extra depth from a second fermentation on the skins left over from Amarone production, adding richness and spice to the fresh cherry and plum fruit. La Giaretta is a producer I’ve followed for years, and I Quadretti has the generosity to go with Christmas ham, slow-cooked pork or a plate of mature cheeses.

From Abruzzo, Ciavolich’s Montepulciano Fosso Cancelli 2019 shows a more earthy, individual side of Italian red wine. Montepulciano brings dark cherry, blackberry and spice, while Fosso Cancelli is the sort of bottling to look to when you want a little more depth and a sense of place. Give it time in the glass and serve it with slow-roasted lamb, game or a rich ragù.

Tuscany brings us Marchesi Antinori’s 2018 La Braccesca Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva. Sangiovese is the heart of Vino Nobile, giving sour cherry, dried herbs, spice and a firm, savoury structure. Antinori has been making wine in Tuscany for centuries, but this is no museum piece: it’s a versatile, food-friendly red for roast turkey, beef or a generous board of pecorino and salumi.

Finally, we head south to Campania for Donnachiara’s Taurasi Per Umberto Riserva 2018, made from Aglianico, one of southern Italy’s most compelling red varieties. Expect dark fruit, earthy spice, firm tannins and the kind of structure that loves rich food and rewards a little patience. Put it alongside braised beef, slow-cooked lamb or a winter stew and let it do its thing.

That’s the Giro: six regions, six different expressions of Italy, and a case designed for proper festive eating. Open the magnum when the family arrives, work your way south over the holidays, and don’t be surprised if a few bottles disappear before Christmas dinner even gets started.