Auxey-Duresses Premier Cru 'Ecusseaux', Domaine Robert Ampeau et Fils, 1999
Auxey-Duresses Premier Cru 'Ecusseaux', Domaine Robert Ampeau et Fils, 1999
- 75cl
- 13%
- Red Still
- Pinot Noir
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Optimal drinking window: 2026 - 2032
Est. delivery in late autumn 2026
Robert Ampeau is one of Burgundy's great enigmas: a domaine that released wines only when it deemed them ready, not when the market demanded. This 1999 Auxey-Duresses Premier Cru from the Ecusseaux vineyard has had nearly three decades of quiet evolution in the cellar, and it arrives in a state of composed, mature grace.
Auxey-Duresses sits tucked behind Meursault and Volnay, perpetually underestimated, perpetually interesting — its reds combining the lean mineral backbone of the Côte de Beaune with a warmth and weight that the 1999 vintage delivered in spades.
As these wines have remained unmoved in the cold cellars at Ampeau since bottling, the conditions for a very slow, undisturbed ageing are perfect. Given the nature of the wines, we are unable to offer credit for corked/out of condition bottles, but our experience with these bottles is that the condition and ex-cellar provenance is impeccable.
The Ecusseaux premier cru lies on the upper slopes of Auxey-Duresses, where the gradient steepens and the topsoil thins over Bathonian and Bajocian limestone. These calcareous, free-draining soils push vines to work hard, producing wines with more nervous acidity and mineral precision than the richer, clay-influenced lower sites. The east-facing aspect moderates the ripening, preserving freshness even in warmer years like 1999. The result in red is a Pinot Noir with structure and length rather than immediate fleshiness.
Auxey-Duresses is a small Côte de Beaune commune that sits in a valley running west from Meursault, and it has always suffered slightly from proximity to more famous neighbours. The appellation produces both red and white wine, with around a third of its production devoted to Pinot Noir. There are nine premier cru lieux-dits, Ecusseaux among the most respected for red, producing wines with real grip and mineral character. Prices remain significantly below Volnay or Pommard for wines of comparable quality — which, depending on your perspective, is either a scandal or an opportunity.
The 1999 growing season in Burgundy was generous almost to a fault. Warm, dry conditions through the summer built excellent ripeness, but a wet September introduced the familiar anxiety of rot, particularly on Pinot Noir where thin skins offer little resistance. Producers who picked decisively, before the rains did their worst, made wines of real depth and concentration. Those who hesitated paid the price. The harvest was large — unusually so — which means quality is genuinely variable, and provenance matters more here than in many years.
At its best, 1999 produced Pinot Noirs with a lovely combination of fruit density and freshness: not the brooding power of 2005, but wines with real substance and enough acidity to age gracefully. Chardonnay fared well too, with the better Côte de Beaune whites still holding firm. Most village and premier cru reds are drinking well now, with the finest premiers and grands crus ideally suited until 2030 or so — provided you're buying from a reliable source.

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