Bourgogne Blanc, Domaine d'Aubigny, 2022
Bourgogne Blanc, Domaine d'Aubigny, 2022
- 75cl
- 14%
- White Still
- Chardonnay
- Organic
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Optimal drinking window: 2026 - 2030
Regional Bourgogne Blanc rarely gets the fanfare of its grander village and premier cru cousins, but a well-made example like this one from Domaine d'Aubigny is where you find Chardonnay stripped back to its honest, everyday self. This is lightly oaked Chardonnay with none of the theatre, just the purity. Expect pale gold in the glass, green apple and citrus on the nose, and a palate that's lean, bright and food-friendly.
Domaine d’Aubigny is one of those Burgundian stories that sounds made up, but isn’t. Founded in 1132 as a métairie of the Abbaye de Mézières, the estate predates Clos de Vougeot and now sits quietly in the hills above Rully, hiding one of the largest enclosed vineyards in the Côte Chalonnaise. The single clos is so vast it spans multiple appellations, which neatly explains why “Clos” will never appear on the label, bureaucracy remains undefeated.
Since taking over in 2021, Kwame Onwuachi and his partners have rebuilt the domaine as a fully organic, mixed farm. High-trained vines, grassed rows, on-site livestock and total nitrogen autonomy all feed into a thoughtful, low-intervention approach. Trained in Beaune after a previous life in San Francisco tech, Kwame brings both discipline and ambition.
This is a wine for the near term rather than the long haul. The bright primary fruit is at its best within the first two to three years, and while a little bottle age can soften the acidity into something rounder, it won't develop the secondary complexity of a village or premier cru wine. Drink it while it's lively, there's no reward in waiting much beyond 2030.
Tasting Notes
AppearancePale lemon-gold with a bright, youthful rim.
NoseGreen apple, lemon peel and white flowers, with a faint touch of brioche if lightly oaked.
PalateCrisp and linear, with citrus and orchard fruit carried on bright acidity and a subtle creamy texture.
FinishClean, saline and refreshingly short rather than lingering.
Overall impressionAn honest, unpretentious Chardonnay built for drinking rather than pondering.
Food Pairings
In Burgundy, a wine like this turns up at the table alongside jambon persillé, a simple goat's cheese, or the region's beloved gougères straight from the oven. It's the wine locals reach for with a weekday fish supper, perhaps trout from the Saône, or a bowl of escargots without overthinking the occasion. This is Chardonnay as a kitchen companion, not an event.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve chilled at around 10-12°C. No decanting required, a few minutes in the glass is all it needs to open up. A standard white wine glass or a small tulip-shaped glass does the job perfectly well.
Fruit for Bourgogne Blanc is typically drawn from a patchwork of sites across the region, often on the fringes of more prestigious appellations, with limestone and clay soils that give Chardonnay its characteristic backbone. The cooler continental climate preserves acidity, while lesser-exposed slopes keep ripeness in check, resulting in wines of restraint rather than richness.
Bourgogne Blanc is Burgundy's regional catch-all white appellation, permitting fruit from across the region rather than a single village or climat. It sits at the base of Burgundy's quality pyramid beneath village, premier cru and grand cru wines, but in the right hands it offers real value and genuine Chardonnay character without the price tag of its more famous neighbours like Meursault or Puligny-Montrachet.
The 2022 growing season in Burgundy began with a worryingly dry spring that had vignerons checking soil moisture levels weekly, followed by a summer that alternated between intense heat and welcome rainfall. The vines handled the stress remarkably well, producing smaller berries with concentrated flavours, though yields dropped significantly across both the Côte d'Or and Chablis. Harvest began earlier than usual, with many producers picking in late August under bright skies.
What emerged from the cellars shows a vintage of surprising finesse given the challenging conditions. The Pinot Noirs display vivid fruit and firm tannins without the jammy weight you might expect from a hot year, whilst the Chardonnays retained their mineral backbone alongside ripe stone fruit flavours. We're finding the village-level wines particularly compelling right now, drinking beautifully with just a year or two of bottle age, though the premier and grand crus will reward patience until the late 2020s.
FAQs
What does this wine taste like?
Crisp green apple and citrus with a touch of creaminess and a clean, saline finish.
When should I drink this wine?
It's ready now and best enjoyed until 2030, while the fruit is fresh and vibrant.
What food pairs well with this wine?
Think simple French fare: goat's cheese, gougères, light fish dishes or poultry.
How should I serve this wine?
Chill to around 10-12°C and serve in a standard white wine glass. No decanting needed.
Is this a wine worth cellaring?
This is a wine to enjoy young rather than lay down for the future.
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