Catena Zapata, Adrianna Vineyard Mundus Bacillus Terrae, 2023
Catena Zapata, Adrianna Vineyard Mundus Bacillus Terrae, 2023
- 75cl
- 13.5%
- Red Still
- Malbec
- Organic
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Drinking window: 2026 - 2045
Mundus Bacillus Terrae — named after the microbiological life Catena Zapata's researchers discovered in the Adrianna Vineyard's soils — is about as far from the plush, extracted Malbec stereotype as Argentina gets. Grown at nearly 3,300 metres above sea level in the Gualtallary district of Tupungato, this is a wine defined by altitude and soil biology rather than sun and ripeness.
The result is a Malbec that's taut, mineral, and genuinely surprising: more Burgundian in its restraint than anything you'd expect from Mendoza.
What the critics say:
"The first vintage of this bottling to be fermented entirely in concrete, the 2023 Adrianna Vineyard Malbec Mundus Bacillus Terrae was the single most impressive wine I tasted within the Catena Zapata portfolio. From the coolest section of the site, known as Lot 3, it again has the most multifaceted expression of the site, at once delivering the most enveloping yet weightless, intense yet delicate example of Malbec in the roster. The finish manages a similar array of complexity, fusing a cascading, velvety richness with nearly grainless tannins delivered with immense saturation. I suppose it's no accident that this parcel directly abuts the parcel that supplies what I found to be the second-most impressive wine, the White Bones Chardonnay, a clear testament to the continued work at Catena Zapata in understanding their array of terroirs on an ever more intimate and rigorous level. It could well deserve an even higher score with additional time in bottle."
"The 2023 tv1albec Adrianna Vineyard tv1undus Bacillus Terrae presents a nuanced profile of black and red fruits, violets, soft field herbs and a subtle hint of thyme. This is leaner than in previous vintages, with tension, fine, reactive tannins and juicy flow. The 2023 is precise, fresh and detailed. "
The Adrianna Vineyard sits at around 3,280 metres in Gualtallary, the highest and coolest subzone of the Uco Valley, where volcanic soils meet limestone and a unique population of microorganisms that Catena Zapata's researchers spent years mapping. The extreme altitude means intense UV radiation, large diurnal temperature swings of up to 20°C, and a short, focused growing season — all of which push the vines to produce grapes with extraordinary concentration of flavour at relatively low sugar levels. That mineral, iron-edged quality in the wine is not accidental: it is the direct expression of soils rich in calcium carbonate and the microbial activity that inspired this wine's name.
The Adrianna Vineyard sits within the Uco Valley, a high-altitude subregion of Mendoza that has transformed the global perception of Argentine wine over the past two decades. Unlike the warmer, lower-lying vineyards of Luján de Cuyo, Uco Valley produces wines of significantly higher natural acidity and freshness, with Gualtallary at its extreme altitude considered the most prized district of all. Argentina's appellation system (Indicación Geográfica and Denominación de Origen Controlada) is still maturing, but Uco Valley has effectively established itself as a prestige cru in everything but formal classification.
The 2023 vintage in Mendoza arrived with its own particular rhythm. Spring brought adequate rainfall to replenish the soils after several drier years, though producers had to stay alert during flowering to manage the increased humidity. Summer unfolded with the kind of temperature swings that make Mendoza tick: hot days balanced by those crucial cool nights that flow down from the Andes, preserving acidity whilst allowing phenolic ripening to proceed at its own pace.
What emerged from the cellars shows Mendoza at its most expressive. The Malbecs display that wonderful combination of concentrated dark fruit and mineral backbone that comes when the vines have enough water early on but must work a bit harder later in the season. Cabernet Sauvignon benefited particularly well from the conditions, producing wines with structure and depth that should reward patience. Most 2023s are drinking beautifully now, offering immediate pleasure, though the better examples will happily cellar until 2035 or beyond.
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