Côteaux Bourguignons, Domaine Prieuré Roch, 2019

Prieuré Roch is one of Burgundy's great cult addresses, founded by the late Henry-Frédéric Roch, co-gérant of Romanée-Conti, and farmed with a ferocious commitment to biodynamics that borders on the philosophical. Their Coteaux Bourguignons is the entry point into that world — and it punches well above its modest appellation. Made from Pinot Noir grown in the Nuits-Saint-Georges area, it has the estate's characteristic combination of transparency and tension: light in colour, serious in intent.

The 2019 vintage gave Burgundy generous, sun-drenched fruit, and this has soaked it up without losing its nerve. Red cherry and crushed stone, a faint iron thread, and a finish that stretches further than the label has any right to promise.