Gevrey-Chambertin 'Vieilles Vignes', Domaine Dugat-Py, 2020

One of the top domaines in Burgundy, Dugat-Py also has one of the most impressive and extensive cellars in the region, originally built in 11th century for the Abbey of Saint Benigné in Dijon. Loïc Dugat, now 13th generation, is continuing the family tradition of making some of the greatest and most sought-after wines in Burgundy, from the family’s eleven hectares of perfectly-sited vineyards, planted with vines averaging nearly seventy years old. Everything is done by hand, while a horse is used to plough a few of the vineyards.

The domaine has been fully organic since 2003, with Loïc now working biodynamically across a number of sites. The wines are vinified with as little intervention as possible and are bottled unfined and unfiltered. Since 2017 the use of new oak has been reduced which really allows the quality of these sites and the character of the old vine fruit to shine through from barrel.

Under Loic’s stewardship and with a string of superb vintages, Dugat-Py is now firmly back in the front rank of Burgundy’s top domaines. These are not inexpensive wines but if you consider that the village level “Vieilles Vignes” and “Coeur du Roy” are better than most growers' 1er Crus, whilst Dugat-Py’s 1er Crus are more thrilling than a lot of others’ Grand Crus then it helps put purchases in perspective.