Marchesi Antinori, Castello della Sala 'Cervaro della Sala', 2024
Marchesi Antinori, Castello della Sala 'Cervaro della Sala', 2024
- 75cl
- 12.5%
- White Still
- Chardonnay, Grechetto
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Optimal drinking window: 2026 - 2034
Est. delivery end of October, 2026
"You can count the best Orvieto producers on one hand", claims Vinous' Eric Guido, and "Castello della Sala undoubtedly ranks among them".
Antinori has been making wine here since 1940 and first released Cervaro back in 1985, where it turned heads as one Italy's first barrel-fermented Chardonnays. They were seeking that same energy, tension and vivacity you find in great white Burgundy, and to achieve that in warmer Umbria, boldly chose to throw a dash of Grechetto into the mix.
The resultant wine combines the generosity of Umbria whilst being distinctively Burgundian; in fact one of France's most esteemed oenologists famously identified Cervaro as a Batard-Montrachet at a blind tasting.
“The amazing successful Cervaro della Sala has arguably done more to raise the image of Italian white wine that any other single bottle”
Monica Larner
“...one of Italy's great white wines that improve with age like the best of Burgundy”
James Suckling
In its first year or two the oak and fruit will still be getting acquainted, with the wine showing a touch of richness and spice up front. By 2028 or so the lees character and barrel influence should have knitted into something more seamless, with the mineral core beginning to assert itself. Mid-decade onwards expect a more textural, savoury wine, the fruit receding slightly to reveal honeyed, nutty complexity.
What the critics say:
"A typical Cervaro, showing sliced-apple, pineapple, vanilla and crushed-shell aromas and flavors, following through to a medium to full body with lovely density and intensity. Light oiliness and freshness at the end. Elegant and crisp. Drink or hold."
Tasting Notes
AppearancePale gold with a bright, youthful rim.
NoseRipe pear and citrus peel sit over toasted hazelnut and a whisper of vanilla from the oak, with a chalky, almost smoky undertone beneath.
PalateFull and creamy on entry, the fruit quickly tightens into something more linear, with orchard fruit, a savoury lees texture, and a streak of saline minerality running through the middle.
FinishLong, dry, and faintly smoky, with the acidity doing the final talking.
Overall impressionA white built on contrast, generous one moment and taut the next.
Food Pairings
In Umbria this would happily sit alongside a plate of tagliatelle with black truffle shaved generously over the top, the earthy richness meeting the wine's own savoury depth. Grilled freshwater fish from Lake Trasimeno, or a simple roast guinea fowl with wild mushrooms, would do it just as much justice. Locals might also reach for it with a soft, young pecorino, letting the wine's acidity cut through the cheese's creaminess.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at 11-13°C, cool enough to keep the structure taut but not so cold as to mute the aromatics. There's no need to decant, though opening it half an hour before drinking lets the oak integrate a touch further. A generous white Burgundy glass will do this wine every favour, giving the aromatics room to unfurl.
The vineyards surrounding the medieval Castello della Sala sit at around 250-300 metres on a patchwork of clay and sand with fossil-rich marine deposits, a legacy of the ancient seabed that once covered this part of Umbria. Days are warm but the altitude and proximity to Lake Corbara bring cooling breezes and solid diurnal swings, which help retain the acidity that gives this wine its backbone. This is not classic Chardonnay country, which makes the result all the more intriguing.
Cervaro della Sala is labelled simply Umbria IGT, a designation that grants Antinori the freedom to blend Chardonnay with the indigenous Grechetto in whatever proportion suits the vintage, something a stricter DOC would never allow. That flexibility has been central to the wine's identity since its first vintage in 1985, when it helped put Umbrian whites on the international map alongside the region's better-known reds from Montefalco and Torgiano.
The 2024 vintage in Umbria delivered exactly what local winemakers hoped for after a string of challenging years. Spring arrived with balanced rainfall that recharged the soils without causing problems, followed by a warm but not punishing summer that allowed steady ripening across the region's hillside vineyards. The harvest ran smoothly through September and into early October, with growers able to pick at optimal ripeness rather than racing against weather drama.
What emerged from the cellars shows Umbria at its most expressive. The Sangiovese displays proper backbone with fresh red fruit that doesn't feel forced, while Sagrantino managed to achieve its characteristic power without the sometimes brutal tannins that can dominate lesser years. We're particularly impressed by how the international varieties like Merlot and Cabernet have integrated with their terroir rather than simply showcasing varietal character. Most 2024s are drinking beautifully now with enough structure to cellar confidently until 2032, though the Sagrantinos will reward patience until 2035 and beyond.
FAQs
What does Cervaro della Sala taste like?
A rich yet taut white blending Chardonnay and Grechetto, with ripe pear and citrus, creamy texture, and a mineral, saline finish.
When should I drink this wine?
It can be enjoyed from release, but will reward patience and hold its form comfortably until 2034.
What food should I pair it with?
Truffle pasta, grilled lake fish, or roast guinea fowl with wild mushrooms all suit it well.
How should I serve it?
Serve at 11-13°C in a generous white wine glass; no decanting required, though half an hour of air helps.
Is this wine worth cellaring?
Yes, it's one of Italy's more age-worthy whites and will gain complexity and texture over the next several years.
What grapes are in Cervaro della Sala?
Predominantly Chardonnay, barrel-fermented, with a smaller portion of the Umbrian variety Grechetto for grip and character.
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