Mercurey Rouge Vieilles Vignes, Domaine François Raquillet, 2022
Mercurey Rouge Vieilles Vignes, Domaine François Raquillet, 2022
- 75cl
- 13%
- Red Still
- Pinot Noir
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Optimal drinking window: Now - 2032
Who is the greatest, under-the-radar producer in Burgundy? There are a handful of growers in the Côte-d'Or who might deserve that title, but looking further south to Mercurey, one Domaine that is crafting incredible, thought-provoking wines is Francois Raquillet. With scores that rank alongside a top producer's Côte-d'Or 1er Crus, these are wines that merit a place in any serious Burgundy lover's cellar.
Features as one of the Top 10 Côte Chalonnaise Producers in Tim Atkin's Burgundy 2022 Special Report.
Widely considered the best producer of the village (and among the leaders of the region), Francois has been harvesting his 12ha (8 planted to red and 4 to white) of increasingly old vines, some 70 years+, at the end of August for the last six years so is far less concerned by climate change than many Côte d’Or growers to the north. In fact the Chalonnais has been a beneficiary of the hotter, drier weather as it has helped reduce yields, and increase concentration and ripeness in the grapes, ultimately leading to richer, more gourmand, and frankly much better wines.
The 2022 is currently showing beautifully integrated fruit and oak, with the primary red cherry and raspberry flavours well-balanced against earthy secondary development. Over the next 2-3 years, we expect the fruit to become more complex, developing into deeper cherry and plum characteristics while the mineral backbone becomes more pronounced. The wine should hit its peak around 2028-2030, when the old vine concentration will fully integrate with developing tertiary complexity. After 2032, the fruit may begin to fade, though the mineral structure should keep this interesting for several more years.
What the critics say:
Tasting Notes
AppearanceBright ruby with garnet highlights, showing good depth for a young wine.
NoseFresh cherry and damson fruit with underlying earth and spice. There's a lovely floral lift that speaks to the old vines, plus subtle oak integration that adds vanilla and cedar without overwhelming. The aromatics gain complexity with air, revealing mushroom and forest floor undertones.
PalateMedium-bodied with silky tannins that coat the mouth beautifully. The fruit is concentrated but fresh, showing red cherry, blackberry, and a touch of plum. Mineral acidity provides excellent backbone, while earthy spices and a hint of liquorice add complexity. The old vines contribute natural concentration without heaviness.
FinishLong and satisfying with lingering red fruit, earth, and mineral persistence.
Overall impressionThis is serious Burgundy that punches well above its appellation weight.
Food Pairings
In Burgundy's Côte Chalonnaise, this would pair naturally with coq au vin made with the local wine, or perhaps a classic boeuf bourguignon where the earthiness of the wine matches the richness of the dish. The region's charcuterie tradition means this works beautifully with jambon persillé or rillettes, while the wine's mineral backbone complements the local goat cheeses like Chaource. During truffle season, locals might pair this with eggs scrambled with truffles, the wine's earthy undertones creating a perfect bridge between luxury and comfort.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at 16-17°C to let the fruit express itself while maintaining the wine's structure. A light decant of 30 minutes will help integrate the components, though it's not essential given the wine's current approachability. Use Burgundy bowls if you have them - the wide rim helps concentrate those delicate aromatics that make Pinot Noir so compelling. This wine rewards patience in the glass, gaining complexity as it warms and opens.
Mercurey sits in the Côte Chalonnaise's heart, where limestone and clay soils create ideal conditions for Pinot Noir. The climate here is warmer and drier than the Côte-d'Or, which in recent years has become an advantage rather than a limitation. Raquillet's old vines dig deep into these soils, accessing minerals and nutrients that younger plantings simply cannot reach. This combination of ancient roots and evolving climate creates wines with both richness and freshness, capturing the best of traditional Burgundy character with modern concentration.
Mercurey is the Côte Chalonnaise's largest and most important red wine appellation, producing Pinot Noir that offers serious Burgundy character without Côte-d'Or prices. The AOC rules mirror those of the Côte-d'Or, requiring 100% Pinot Noir for reds, but the terroir here creates a different style: more approachable young, often richer and more generous than its northern neighbours. While historically seen as Burgundy's affordable alternative, the best producers like Raquillet are proving Mercurey deserves respect on its own terms, not as a substitute for anything else.
The 2022 growing season in Burgundy began with a worryingly dry spring that had vignerons checking soil moisture levels weekly, followed by a summer that alternated between intense heat and welcome rainfall. The vines handled the stress remarkably well, producing smaller berries with concentrated flavours, though yields dropped significantly across both the Côte d'Or and Chablis. Harvest began earlier than usual, with many producers picking in late August under bright skies.
What emerged from the cellars shows a vintage of surprising finesse given the challenging conditions. The Pinot Noirs display vivid fruit and firm tannins without the jammy weight you might expect from a hot year, whilst the Chardonnays retained their mineral backbone alongside ripe stone fruit flavours. We're finding the village-level wines particularly compelling right now, drinking beautifully with just a year or two of bottle age, though the premier and grand crus will reward patience until the late 2020s.
FAQs
What does this wine taste like?
Think classic Burgundian Pinot Noir but with extra richness - red cherry and raspberry fruit with earthy undertones and silky tannins. The old vines give it depth that many young-vine Burgundies simply cannot match.
How does this compare to Côte-d'Or Burgundy?
It offers similar elegance and complexity but with more immediate generosity. While Côte-d'Or wines can be austere when young, this Mercurey gives pleasure now while still having the structure to age gracefully.
When should I drink this wine?
It's drinking beautifully now and will continue to improve until 2030. The sweet spot is probably 2028-2032, when all the elements will be perfectly integrated.
What food pairs best with this wine?
Classic Burgundian dishes like coq au vin or beef bourguignon are perfect, but it's versatile enough for roast duck, lamb, or even salmon. The earthy character makes it wonderful with mushroom dishes too.
Is this wine worth cellaring?
Absolutely. While approachable now, it has the structure and old-vine concentration to reward patience. Proper cellaring will bring out more complexity and integration over the next 8-10 years.
Why is this producer special?
François Raquillet is widely considered Mercurey's finest producer, crafting wines that score alongside premier crus from more famous villages. His old vines and late harvest approach create wines with exceptional depth and character.
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