Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru, La Riotte, Taupenot-Merme, 2020

Neal Martin said “Duroché’s style of wine is very much in the mold of… Romain Taupenot in Morey-Saint-Denis" and that the latter is now “one of the most reliable and exciting estates” and we wholeheartedly concur.

Romain began harvesting on the 26th August almost 3 weeks earlier than in 2019 (16th September), but still 95 days from flowering. The entire year simply started earlier and enjoyed more sunshine. The brief frost didn’t affect any of his crop, however hydric stress was Romain’s main concern. Not a drop between 1st July and harvest ultimately had an affect on yields (which are incidentally down on 2021!). “If only we had had even one shower”, he anguished on what might have been his greatest vintage!

His Combe d’Orveau suffered most, and he could produce just a quarter of the Charmes-Chambertin he would otherwise make. That being said, he was most surprised, and pleasantly so, at the high acidity still maintained from such a warm vintage, which have undoubtedly elevated all his wines from village level up. The tight, firm tannins are impeccably fine and polished and hardly noticeable in some cuvees at this young stage.