Maison Bollinger, Vieilles Vignes Françaises, 2016

"There is a singular, inimitable uniqueness to the enigmatic VVF, which must be thanks to its non-grafted, non-trellised viticultural system... The ravishing personality that pinot noir assumes here is something to behold. Golden stone fruits, ripe fig, black cherries and toffeed pineapple swirl with mesmerising rings of deep, dark spice, honey and wonderful layers of tarte tatin, creme brûlée, liquorice and mocha. Warm season phenolic grip has been perfectly managed and massaged to heighten structure and definition without coarseness or bitterness. I love the way it effortlessly unites succulent layers of generous black fruits, the creamy, silky texture of small barrel fermentation and long lees age, and the crystalline, saline structure of distinctive Aÿ chalk minerality. In length, presence and sheer, voluminous, inimitable personality, this is something to behold - another captivating rendition in the mesmerising spectacle that is VVF. It’s just a tragedy it's so miniscule."

"…Now newly launched, the wine is fantastic with a deep sparkling golden color. In the aroma, I am met by a heavy orchestra with brass and drums. Honeysuckle, honey, milk chocolate, oak, caramel, nougat, blackberry, ripe yellow peach, apricot and Moroccan leather constitute the most important components of the aromatic symphony. The incredibly concentrated taste plays on exactly the same theme, but has also been gifted with a new element of fig, sweet lemon pie and exotic fruits that I did not find in the fragrance package. In the aftertaste, the nougat note transitions to pure hazelnut from Piedmont. Another giant is born to enrich the ultimate wine world elite. The gratitude I feel is boundless and becomes almost even greater when you think that the phylloxera could attack the two small plots of land in Aÿ at any time. So we never know if the latest vintage will be the last."