Maison Darragon, Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Haut Des Ruettes, 2022
Maison Darragon, Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Haut Des Ruettes, 2022
- 75cl
- 13%
- White Still
- Chenin Blanc
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Optimal drinking window: 2026 - 2035
Vouvray Demi Sec occupies a fascinating middle ground that the Loire does better than almost anywhere on earth: sweet enough to carry serious fruit weight, dry enough to demand food or close attention. Maison Darragon's Le Haut des Ruettes comes from old Chenin Blanc vines on the plateau above the Brenne valley, where the soils shift from clay over tuffeau limestone and the grapes take their time ripening into something genuinely complex.
The 2022 vintage gave warmth without sacrificing freshness, and this wine lands with poached quince, orange blossom, and a streak of wet stone that keeps everything honest. This is the kind of Vouvray that converts people who assumed demi sec meant cloying.
Right now the primary fruit is front and centre: quince, pear, and citrus blossom doing most of the talking. From around 2028 the wine should start to develop the classic Chenin secondary character, richer honeyed tones, beeswax, and dried fruit, while the acidity continues to hold everything in shape. By 2030-2032 we would expect it to be at its most complex and compelling, the sweetness fully integrated and the mineral backbone more pronounced. After 2035 it may start to lose some of its freshness, though the best bottles could surprise you well beyond that.
Tasting Notes
AppearancePale gold with a faint green shimmer, clear and bright in the glass.
NosePoached quince and ripe pear lead, with orange blossom and a touch of acacia honey. Underneath there is something stony and cool, like chalk dust and crushed flint, that keeps the sweetness from feeling indulgent.
PalateThe sweetness arrives gently and is immediately answered by a vivid, almost electric acidity that pulls the wine long and taut. Quince paste, dried apricot, and a whisper of lanolin give the mid-palate real texture without heaviness.
FinishLong and mineral, with a persistent saline thread and a faint beeswax note that lingers well after the fruit has faded.
Overall impressionA demi sec that earns its sweetness and then some, with the architecture to age beautifully over the next decade.
Food Pairings
In the Loire Valley, demi sec Vouvray is the instinctive choice with rillettes de Tours, the rich, slow-cooked pork spread served on dense country bread where the wine's sweetness cuts through the fat perfectly. It is also wonderful alongside the region's freshwater fish dishes, particularly sandre au beurre blanc, where the acidity mirrors the sauce and the fruit weight holds its own. Locals will reach for it with a wedge of Sainte-Maure de Touraine, the ash-rolled goat's cheese whose chalky tang is a near-perfect foil for the wine's stone-fruit richness. And do not dismiss it with a simple roast chicken stuffed with herbs and rested in its own juices.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at 10-12°C, cold enough to keep the freshness singing but not so cold that the fruit closes down. No need to decant, though giving it fifteen minutes in the glass to open up is worthwhile. A tulip-shaped white wine glass works well here, something with enough bowl to let the aromas gather but not so wide that the precision is lost.
The Hautes de Ruettes vineyard sits on the plateau above Vouvray, where soils are a mix of clay and the region's characteristic tuffeau, a soft, porous limestone that drains well and retains just enough moisture to protect vines in dry years. The elevation gives cooler nights than the valley floor, which helps preserve the acidity that makes Chenin Blanc from this area so compelling. The tuffeau also lends a distinctive mineral salinity that runs through Darragon's wines like a thread.
Vouvray is an AOC on the right bank of the Loire, just east of Tours, dedicated entirely to Chenin Blanc in all its forms: from bone-dry sec to luscious moelleux, and sparkling too. Demi sec sits in the middle of the sweetness spectrum, with residual sugar typically between 12 and 45 grams per litre, though Chenin's naturally high acidity can make a wine feel far drier than the numbers suggest. Vouvray's limestone soils and continental climate with Atlantic influence give the wines a minerality and longevity that set them apart from neighbouring Montlouis, which tends to be a touch rounder and earlier-drinking.
The 2022 growing season in the Loire delivered one of those vintages that reminds you why this river valley has been making wine for over a thousand years. Early budbreak led into a warm, dry summer that had growers watching their vines carefully, but crucially the region's diverse soils and microclimates meant most producers could manage the heat stress without panic. What looked potentially challenging turned generous when September brought just enough rain to plump the grapes without diluting their concentration.
We find ourselves with wines that sing with pure fruit but carry real substance underneath. The Sauvignon Blancs from Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé show brilliant mineral precision alongside ripe citrus flavours, while Muscadet delivers that classic shellfish-friendly salinity with more weight than usual. Chinon and Bourgueil produced Cabernet Francs with lovely spice and enough tannin to age gracefully, though they're already drinking beautifully now. Most of these wines are hitting their stride already, with the reds showing particular charm over the next three to five years.
FAQs
What does this wine taste like?
Poached quince, orange blossom, and dried apricot, with a stony mineral edge and a bright acidity that keeps the sweetness in check. It is genuinely refreshing rather than rich, with a long saline finish.
Is this wine sweet?
It is demi sec, so there is real sweetness here, but Chenin Blanc's naturally high acidity means it does not taste cloying. Think of it as sweet in the way a perfectly ripe peach is sweet rather than a dessert.
When should I drink this?
It is drinking well now, particularly with food. If you want it at its most complex, hold a few bottles until 2028-2032 when the secondary honeyed character will start to emerge. We would drink it until 2035.
What food should I pair it with?
Rich pork rillettes, roast chicken, freshwater fish with butter sauce, or a wedge of aged goat's cheese are all ideal. The sweetness and acidity together make it unusually versatile at the table.
How should I serve it?
Serve at 10-12°C in a tulip-shaped white wine glass. No decanting needed, but give it a few minutes in the glass before diving in.
Is it worth cellaring?
Yes, absolutely. Good Vouvray demi sec from quality producers ages exceptionally well, and this has the acidity and structure to reward patience. A few bottles set aside until 2028 or later will be well worth it.
OUR GROWERS
Maison Darragon
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