Marchesi Antinori, Bramìto Della Sala Chardonnay, 2023
Marchesi Antinori, Bramìto Della Sala Chardonnay, 2023
- 75cl
- 12.5%
- White Still
- Chardonnay
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Optimal drinking window: Now - 2030
The Bramìto della Sala is the estate’s 100% Chardonnay and its first vintage dates back to 1994. The grapes are from younger Chardonnay vines on the estate, sitting on soils rich in fossil deposits with veins of clay that give this wine minerality and elegance. The juice is only part barrel fermented, with malolactic fermentation lending a luscious creamy texture and flavour to the wine.
In 2023 this yet again shares much in common with the Grand Vin, Cervaro, with an impressive degree of power and finesse you rarely see in Italian Chardonnay. Bravo.
"Deep nose, with notes of white pear, yuzu, lemon zest and vanilla pod. Great lift and bite to the palate, which uncoils with a fine vein of grapefruit acidity perfectly balancing the generosity of the fruit, alongside the usual crushed rock / mineral character from this impressive site near the border between Umbria and Tuscany. This is always an over-performer and has lost none of its charm in the warmth of the year."
Tom Harrow, Head Wine Guru
Currently in its primary phase with vibrant citrus and orchard fruit dominating, though the aromatics remain somewhat closed and will need another year to fully emerge. From 2027 onwards, expect the oak integration to soften whilst secondary honeyed and nutty characters develop, adding complexity to the mineral backbone. The wine should reach its peak between 2028-2029, when the fruit, oak, and mineral elements achieve perfect harmony, before beginning a gentle decline after 2030 as the acidity starts to soften.
What the critics say:
"The 2023 Bramìto della Sala is youthfully coy in the glass, opening with fleeting aromas of raw almond, white flowers, vanilla bean and spice. This is far more enticing on the palate, silken and round, with a core of zesty acidity to contrast. Ripe orchard fruits and minty herbal tones swirl throughout. Crunchy mineral tones and sour citrus define the finish. The 2023 tapers off long and mouth-watering, leaving a resonance of lemon custard to linger. Aromatically, the 2023 still needs time to develop, but with such a wonderful balance within, it will be time well spent."
Tasting Notes
AppearancePale gold with bright clarity, catching the light with that youthful shimmer.
NoseStill finding its voice, this one, with whispers of raw almond and vanilla bean peeping through. Give it time in the glass and white flowers emerge alongside that signature crushed rock character from the fossil-rich soils.
PalateHere's where the magic happens: silken texture meets zesty acidity in perfect harmony. Ripe orchard fruits dance with minty herbs while that fine grapefruit backbone keeps everything honest and alive.
FinishLong and mouth-watering with crunchy minerals and a lingering echo of lemon custard.
Overall impressionPower meets finesse in a way that reminds you why Italian Chardonnay deserves serious attention.
Food Pairings
In Umbria, this style of Chardonnay would traditionally accompany the region's famous white truffles, perhaps shaved over fresh tagliatelle with butter and Parmigiano-Reggiano. The wine's minerality pairs beautifully with local freshwater fish from Lake Trasimeno, simply grilled with herbs and olive oil. Umbrian pecorino cheeses, particularly the aged varieties, create wonderful harmony with the wine's creamy texture and underlying acidity, whilst roasted pork with fennel - a regional speciality - complements both the wine's richness and its herbal undertones.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve chilled at 10-12°C in medium-sized white wine glasses to concentrate the developing aromatics. No decanting required, but allow the wine to warm slightly in the glass to reveal its full complexity. The 2023 benefits from being opened 30 minutes before serving to help the initially shy nose develop, and consider using Burgundy-style bowls rather than narrow flutes to maximise the aromatic experience.
The Bramìto vineyard sits on the Castello della Sala estate near Orvieto, straddling the border between Umbria and Tuscany. The soils are particularly rich in marine fossils with veins of clay, remnants of an ancient seabed that imparts distinctive minerality and elegant structure to the wines. The altitude and continental climate provide crucial diurnal temperature variation, preserving acidity whilst allowing full phenolic ripeness in the Chardonnay grapes.
Umbria IGT allows winemakers considerable freedom compared to the stricter DOC regulations, permitting innovative approaches to international varieties like Chardonnay. This flexibility has enabled producers like Antinori to craft wines that express their unique terroir without being constrained by traditional local grape varieties. The region sits in Italy's green heart, benefiting from a continental climate that's ideal for producing elegant, mineral-driven white wines with excellent ageing potential.
The 2023 vintage in Umbria arrived after a growing season that kept producers on their toes. Spring brought welcome rainfall after several dry years, replenishing water reserves that had been running dangerously low. Summer heat waves tested the vines, but Umbria's elevated vineyards and the cooling influence of Lake Trasimeno provided crucial relief during the most intense periods. The harvest began earlier than usual, with producers racing to pick before potential autumn rains could dilute what was shaping up to be a concentrated vintage.
What emerged from the cellars shows remarkable freshness for such a warm year. The Sangiovese displays beautiful clarity and vibrant acidity, whilst Sagrantino produced wines with impressive depth but softer tannins than we typically see from this powerhouse grape. We find the whites particularly successful – Grechetto and Trebbiano Spoletino have a lovely mineral backbone that balances their ripe fruit character. Most 2023 Umbrian wines are drinking beautifully now, offering immediate pleasure whilst having the structure to develop gracefully over the next five to eight years.
FAQs
What does this Chardonnay taste like?
White pear and citrus with creamy vanilla oak, crisp acidity, and distinctive mineral character from fossil-rich soils.
When should I drink this wine?
The 2023 is approachable now but will be at its best from 2027-2030 as the aromatics develop fully.
What food pairs well with this wine?
Excellent with white truffles, grilled fish, aged pecorino cheese, or roasted pork with herbs.
How should I serve this wine?
Serve chilled at 10-12°C in medium-sized white wine glasses, allowing 30 minutes to open up before drinking.
Is this wine worth cellaring?
Yes, but for medium-term cellaring only - it will improve over the next 2-4 years before beginning to decline.
How does this compare to other Italian Chardonnays?
This consistently over-performs its price point, offering impressive power and finesse rarely seen in Italian Chardonnay under £20.
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