New Mature Castello di Ama: 2015 & 2022 San Lorenzo Chianti Classico, 2006 Riserva & More

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Castello di Ama needs little introduction to anyone who takes Chianti Classico seriously. Antonio Galloni says there are “few estates in Italy at this level”, while Monica Larner of The Wine Advocate calls it a “reference-point producer in Tuscany”.

Starting with San Lorenzo, one of Ama’s two single-vineyard Gran Selezione wines, this is arguably the more perfumed and graceful of the pair. Predominantly Sangiovese, with Malvasia Nera and Merlot, it comes from high-altitude vineyards in Gaiole. The 2015 is hitting its stride, with Larner awarding 95 points for its density and layers; James Suckling matched that score, praising its pure fruit. The fresh 2022 has scored 98 points with Suckling, who compared its precision to Grand Cru Burgundy, while Larner’s 95 points called it a “memorable vintage”.

The 2006 Chianti Classico Riserva is in a lovely place now. After nearly two decades, Sangiovese, Malvasia Nera and Merlot have evolved into dried cherry, leather and crushed herbs, with fine, softened tannins and the lifted perfume of Ama’s cooler, higher vineyards.

We’ve also secured a parcel of 2018 ‘Haiku’, the range’s hidden gem. A blend of 50% Sangiovese, 25% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc, it marries rich, succulent dark cherry and plum with spice, new leather and real freshness. Galloni called it “fabulous, possibly the best vintage yet”, while Larner’s 95 points highlighted its elegant, deliberately restrained fruit and Cabernet Franc notes of black olive tapenade. The estate talks of honesty and simplicity, but this can stand proudly alongside the most hallowed SuperTuscans.

We’ve topped up on the 2023 ‘h’ Cabernet Franc, previously available through our syndicate, now offered in single cases.

Finally, a first for us: Al Poggio Chardonnay. From high, clay-limestone slopes where Chardonnay has been planted since the early 1980s, it combines ripe peach, apple and pear with almond, freshness and a mineral edge. Larner awarded 93 points for its taut balance; Suckling’s 92 points picked out peach, raw almond and crushed stone.

New Mature Castello di Ama: 2015 & 2022 San Lorenzo Chianti Classico, 2006 Riserva & More