Gevrey-Chambertin 'Coeur de Roy', Domaine Dugat-Py, 2019

Winemaking at Dugat-Py is low-intervention, with wines bottled unfined and unfiltered. Since 2017, the reduction in new oak has brought greater transparency and precision to the old-vine fruit. Dugat-Py is firmly back among Burgundy’s elite. Even the village Gevrey-Chambertin “Cœur du Roy” — from the domaine’s oldest three-hectare parcel, bordering Lavaut Saint-Jacques and Clos Saint-Jacques — rivals many producers’ Premier Crus.

One of Burgundy’s leading domaines, Dugat-Py also boasts one of the region’s most remarkable cellars, originally built in the 11th century for the Abbey of Saint Bénigne in Dijon. Now in the hands of Loïc Dugat, the 13th generation, the estate farms 11 hectares of superbly sited vineyards, with vines averaging nearly 70 years old. Work is meticulous and largely by hand, with some ploughing still done by horse. Certified organic since 2003, Loïc has introduced biodynamic practices across several parcels.