Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru, Les Chalumeaux, Domaine de Montille, 2020

Les Chalumeaux sits right on the Meursault border, and in Domaine de Montille's hands it shows a little more flesh than some of Puligny's steelier Premier Crus without ever losing that village's trademark tension. This is a house better known for its reds from Volnay and Pommard, but under Étienne de Montille the white side of the operation has become every bit as precise, farmed organically and biodynamically with a light hand in the cellar that lets the vineyard do the talking.

The 2020 is a vintage of ripe fruit held firmly in check by acidity, and here that balance gives a wine of real poise and mineral drive that marks out serious Puligny.