Tenuta San Leonardo, San Leonardo, 2014

San Leonardo is one of northern Italy's most quietly distinguished red wines, made on a small estate tucked into the Val Lagarina in Trentino, just south of the Alto Adige border. The Guerrieri Gonzaga family have been farming here for centuries, and the flagship blend — Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc with Merlot — is often spoken of in the same breath as Sassicaia, a comparison that is not entirely misplaced given the winemaking influence of Giacomo Tachis, the man behind both. The 2014 vintage was a challenging one across northern Italy, but those who kept their nerve were rewarded with wines of real definition and freshness.

This has the cool-climate composure that distinguishes San Leonardo from its Tuscan counterparts: there is precision here rather than weight, aromatic intensity rather than sheer density.