Auxey-Duresses, Domaine Taupenot-Merme, 2020
Auxey-Duresses, Domaine Taupenot-Merme, 2020
- 75cl
- 13%
- Red Still
- Pinot Noir
- Organic
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Optimal drinking window: 2026 - 2035
Romain at Domaine Taupenot-Merme crafts this elegant Auxey-Duresses from vineyards perched on the hillsides between Meursault and Volnay. The 2020 vintage delivers classic Burgundian charm: bright red fruit wrapped in earthy minerality, with the silky tannins that make Pinot Noir from this corner of the Côte de Beaune so appealing.
Romain began harvesting on the 26th August almost 3 weeks earlier than in 2019 (16th September), but still 95 days from flowering. The entire year simply started earlier and enjoyed more sunshine. The brief frost didn’t affect any of his crop, however hydric stress was Romain’s main concern. Not a drop between 1st July and harvest ultimately had an affect on yields (which are incidentally down on 2021!). “If only we had had even one shower”, he anguished on what might have been his greatest vintage.
That being said, he was most surprised, and pleasantly so, at the high acidity still maintained from such a warm vintage, which have undoubtedly elevated all his wines from village level up. The tight, firm tannins are impeccably fine and polished and hardly noticeable.
This 2020 is drinking beautifully now, with primary red fruit still vibrant but starting to integrate with earthier, more complex flavours. Over the next 3-4 years, expect the cherry and strawberry to soften while mushroom, forest floor, and mineral notes become more prominent. The wine should reach its peak around 2030, when fruit and earth achieve perfect balance. After 2035, the fruit will begin to fade, though the wine may retain its charm in a more savoury, ethereal style for devoted Burgundy lovers.
Tasting Notes
AppearanceBright ruby red with garnet highlights at the rim.
NoseFresh red cherry and wild strawberry leap from the glass, followed by rose petals and a hint of forest floor. There's an underlying minerality that speaks of limestone soils, with subtle spice from oak aging.
PalateMedium-bodied with silky tannins and bright acidity that lifts the red fruit flavours. The cherry and strawberry continue on the palate, joined by earthy mushroom and wet leaves. A streak of minerality runs through the middle, keeping everything fresh and focused.
FinishClean and persistent with lingering red fruit and a chalky mineral note.
Overall impressionClassic Burgundian elegance with terroir clearly expressed.
Food Pairings
In Burgundy, this would be the natural partner for coq au vin, where the wine's bright acidity cuts through the rich sauce while its earthy undertones complement the mushrooms and herbs. Local chefs would also serve it with escargots in garlic butter, the wine's minerality playing beautifully against the herb-scented snails. For cheese, it pairs perfectly with local Époisses or aged Chaource, the wine's freshness balancing the creamy, pungent flavours. Wild game like rabbit or venison, simply prepared with herbs from the Burgundian countryside, would complete the regional picture.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at 15-16°C, slightly cooler than room temperature to preserve its freshness and elegance. No need to decant unless you want to show off the colour, though 30 minutes in a wide glass will help the aromas open up. Use proper Burgundy glasses with a generous bowl to concentrate the delicate aromatics. If the wine seems tight on opening, gentle swirling will coax out its complexity.
Auxey-Duresses sits in a natural amphitheatre between the prestigious communes of Meursault and Volnay, at elevations of 250-400 metres. The vineyards face southeast on limestone-rich soils with clay and marl, creating excellent drainage while retaining enough moisture for the vines. The altitude and exposure provide ideal conditions for Pinot Noir, giving wines with bright acidity and mineral backbone that reflects the limestone bedrock.
Auxey-Duresses is often called Burgundy's best-kept secret, offering excellent value for wines that share the same limestone soils as its famous neighbours. The appellation covers both red and white wines, with Pinot Noir typically showing more elegance and finesse than the powerful reds of nearby Pommard. The village's position in a natural bowl creates a cooler microclimate that preserves freshness, making it ideal for elegant, food-friendly Burgundy.
We'll be honest: 2020 in Burgundy was a vintage that kept everyone on their toes. A warm, dry spring brought early budbreak, then summer turned properly scorching with temperatures hitting 40°C in August. The saving grace came from perfectly timed August rains that rescued the vines from serious drought stress, followed by ideal September weather that allowed for unhurried picking. Yields were mercifully normal after several years of frost-ravaged harvests, and crucially, the heat never tipped into the jammy territory that can plague warmer vintages here.
What emerged were wines with surprising freshness despite the heat, showing ripe fruit balanced by good acidity and lovely mineral precision. The reds have more immediate charm than the structured 2019s, with silky tannins and generous Pinot Noir character, whilst the whites display beautiful richness without losing that crystalline Burgundian tension we adore. This isn't a legendary vintage like 2005 or 2010, but it's thoroughly delicious and more approachable in youth than many Burgundy vintages. The village wines are drinking beautifully now, Premier Crus are just hitting their stride, and the Grands Crus will reward patience for another five to ten years.
FAQs
What does this Auxey-Duresses taste like?
Fresh red cherry and strawberry with earthy minerality, silky tannins, and the elegant style that makes Burgundy so food-friendly.
When should I drink this 2020 vintage?
It's drinking beautifully now and will continue to improve until 2035, developing more complex earthy flavours over time.
What food pairs well with this wine?
Classic with roast chicken, duck, mushroom dishes, or soft cheeses. Its bright acidity makes it versatile with many foods.
How should I serve this wine?
Serve at 15-16°C in large Burgundy glasses. No need to decant, but let it breathe for 30 minutes if possible.
Is this wine worth cellaring?
Absolutely. While delicious now, it will develop more complexity and earthier flavours over the next decade.
How does this compare to other Burgundy villages?
Auxey-Duresses offers similar quality to its famous neighbours Meursault and Volnay but at more accessible prices, with elegant, mineral-driven wines.
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