Bibi Graetz, Testamatta, 2021
Bibi Graetz, Testamatta, 2021
- 75cl
- 13.5%
- Red Still
- Sangiovese
- Organic
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Optimal drinking window: Now - 2045
Bibi Graetz is one of Tuscany’s true originals. A painter-turned-winemaker whose work on the hillsides above Florence has redefined what modern Tuscan wine can be. For nearly two decades, he’s been crafting Testamatta ('crazy head') from old-vine Sangiovese scattered across Chianti Classico’s highest, most characterful sites.
After the first wave of Supertuscans, Sassicaia, Tignanello and their kin, Bibi represents the next generation of pioneers: less about Bordeaux blends, more about rediscovering Tuscany’s native voice. His vineyards, populated by gnarled fifty- to eighty-year-old vines, yield fruit of remarkable concentration and depth.
Testamatta is assembled like a mosaic; parcels from differing altitudes, exposures and soils, each contributing a fragment of colour and texture. Fermentation is spontaneous, ageing largely in used oak to preserve purity, and the result is a wine that seems to shimmer with energy rather than weight.
What the critics say:
"Fabulous aromas of strawberries, orange zest and orange blossom. So pure on the nose. Very perfumed. Medium-bodied with intense linear tannins that are ultra-fine in texture. It's fresh and salty with a brightness and focus. Minerally and crisp. pH is 3.4 highlighting the strength of the acidity. Crunchy. Salty. So delicious now but this will age incredibly well."
"Beautifully fragrant on the nose, delicately scented and inviting with subtle wild flower scents, red and black berries and sweet spices. Chalky and powdery tannins support super bright acidity which gives this such a sharp, thrilling and lively expression. Tannins are super fine but have a spiced edge that grips and holds interest, supportive but not overpowering, letting the acidity and bright fruit flavours shine through. Beautifully delineated and expressed, elegant, refined, totally beguiling yet with layers of flavour and intensity and such a long finish. Feels supremely drinkable and that is such a feat at this young stage. Well worked, balanced, and enjoyable with flashes of heat and spice dotting the finish. Really wonderful and totally charming."
OUR GROWERS
Bibi Graetz
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