Brunello di Montalcino, Valdicava, 2012
Brunello di Montalcino, Valdicava, 2012
- 75cl
- 14%
- Red Still
- Sangiovese
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Optimal drinking window: Now - 2040
Valdicava is one of Montalcino's most revered names, and the 2012 is a vintage that rewards those who paid attention. A warm, dry year in Tuscany, 2012 produced wines of concentration and structure in equal measure — not the flashy, opulent style of 2011, but something altogether more serious.
Vincenzo Abbruzzese farms around 13 hectares on the northern slopes of Montalcino, and his Brunello has long been championed by the world's most discerning critics for good reason: it is both powerful and precise, with the kind of old-fashioned discipline that makes you think of a wine built to outlast its maker.
The 2012 Valdicava is at an interesting point right now — the primary fruit is integrating, the tannins are softening from formidable to firm, and the first signs of secondary complexity, leather, dried flowers, and iron, are clearly emerging. Over the next five years it should reach something close to its plateau, with the fruit, structure, and developing bottle-age character all pulling in the same direction. From around 2028 to 2038 we would expect it to be at its most expressive and rewarding. Beyond that, well-stored bottles will begin to turn more tertiary — truffle, dried fig, forest floor — and remain compelling until at least 2045.
What the critics say:
"I like the ripe-fruit and smoked-meat aromas to this. Subtle and complex. Medium to full body, firm and silky tannins and a long and chewy finish. Needs time to soften. Very structured for the vintage. Better in 2020."
"Valdicava represents its own school within the greater Brunello philosophy. This estate (under proprietor Vincenzo Abbruzzese) crafts contemporary and modern wines with noticeable density and ever-present aromatic intensity. The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino reveals a dark and inky appearance with bright ruby highlights that break through the background darkness with brilliance. The nose is generous and robust with dark cherry fruit, plum, Indian spice, mocha and espresso bean. These elements are stitched together with seamless transitions. Despite that grand approach, Sangiovese's prickly and often nervous personality shines through nonetheless. The variety adds delicate berry nuances and bright acidity that give this wine profound depth. This is a very well-made wine that promises a long aging future."
Tasting Notes
AppearanceDeep garnet with a ruby rim, still showing good density for its age with just the faintest amber at the very edge.
NoseDark cherry, dried roses, and iron filings lead the way, with tobacco, a little leather, and something almost mineral — like a warm stone after rain. It needs air; give it twenty minutes and it unfolds considerably.
PalateFull-bodied but never heavy, the 2012 shows that enviable Valdicava characteristic of power guided by precision — the fruit is concentrated and pure, the acidity electric, and the tannins are formidable yet polished to a fine grain. There's real depth here, with that iron and dried fruit quality that only great Brunello achieves.
FinishExtraordinarily long, with mineral persistence, lingering dried cherry, and a faintly smoky, savoury echo that refuses to leave.
Overall impressionA serious, age-worthy Brunello at an interesting crossroads between its austere youth and the silky complexity still to come.
Food Pairings
In Montalcino and the wider Sienese countryside, Brunello is the natural companion to the region's slow-cooked meat traditions — wild boar braised with juniper and red wine, or the famous pici all'aglione, thick hand-rolled pasta in a rich tomato and garlic sauce. Bistecca alla Fiorentina is the grander occasion pairing: a thick-cut T-bone from Chianina cattle, char-grilled and served barely pink. Aged Pecorino di Pienza, the local sheep's milk cheese with its crumbly, savoury bite, is a simpler but equally satisfying match, especially with a wine of this structure and acidity.
We think this wine would go well with
Serve at 17-18°C — any warmer and the alcohol dominates, any cooler and the tannins close up. Decanting is not optional here; allow at least two hours, ideally three, and watch the wine transform in the glass over the course of an evening. A large-bowled Burgundy-style glass will give the nose the room it needs to open up fully.
Valdicava's vineyards sit at around 400 metres altitude on the northern slopes of Montalcino, where the soils are a mix of galestro (crumbly schist-like rock) and alberese (compact clay-limestone). The elevation and northern exposure give the wines more freshness and lift than those from the warmer southern slopes, contributing to the characteristic floral quality and fine-grained tannin structure. The 2012 season added another layer of concentration, with a summer dry enough to stress the vines into producing small, intense berries.
Brunello di Montalcino is one of Italy's most celebrated red wine DOCGs, produced exclusively from Sangiovese Grosso on the hills surrounding the medieval town of Montalcino in southern Tuscany. The regulations are demanding: minimum five years of ageing before release for the standard Brunello (six for Riserva), with at least two spent in oak. The result is always a wine built for time, and the appellation's combination of altitude, varied soils, and continental-Mediterranean climate makes it quite distinct from Chianti Classico to the north — bigger in structure, more austere in youth, and often more profound with age.
The 2012 vintage in Tuscany arrived after a particularly challenging growing season that had producers reaching for their textbooks. Spring brought erratic weather patterns, followed by a summer that tested even the most experienced vignerons. The harvest itself proved tricky, demanding careful selection in the vineyard to separate the wheat from the chaff, so to speak.
What emerged was a vintage of real character, though one that required producers to earn their stripes. The Sangiovese shows a more structured, serious personality than the immediately charming vintages that bookend it, with firm tannins that give the wines backbone and real aging potential. Super Tuscans from this year display remarkable concentration, whilst Chianti Classico producers who managed their yields carefully crafted wines with genuine depth. We find most 2012s are drinking beautifully now, having softened into their stride, though the best examples will continue rewarding patience until 2028.
FAQs
What does Valdicava's Brunello 2012 taste like?
Dark cherry, dried roses, iron, and tobacco are the defining notes, with a mineral quality that runs through the entire wine. The tannins are firm and fine-grained, the acidity is electric, and the finish goes on long enough to make you stop talking mid-sentence. This is not a gentle or easy wine — it rewards attention.
Is the 2012 vintage ready to drink now?
Yes, with patience and a decanter. Open it now and give it at least two to three hours of air, and it will reward you. But it is equally fair to say that this wine is only just beginning its best years — the sweet spot is probably 2028 to 2038, and it should hold well until 2040.
What food should I serve with this?
Think slow-braised meats — wild boar, beef shin, or lamb cooked with herbs and red wine. A perfectly grilled bistecca is the classic regional answer. Aged Pecorino or Parmigiano also works wonderfully if you want something simpler. The wine's acidity and structure mean it needs something substantial alongside it.
How should I serve this wine?
Serve at 17-18°C in a large-bowled glass, and decant for a minimum of two hours — three is better. This is a wine that transforms dramatically with air, so don't be tempted to rush it.
Is Valdicava a well-regarded producer?
Very. Valdicava is considered one of Montalcino's reference estates, with a reputation built on small production, traditional winemaking, and consistent quality across vintages. Robert Parker awarded their Madonna del Piano single-vineyard Brunello scores in the high nineties on multiple occasions. It is one of those producers whose wines consistently punch above their asking price relative to the appellation's more famous names.
Is this wine worth cellaring further?
Absolutely. If you have the means to leave it alone, the 2012 Valdicava will repay patience handsomely. The combination of a great vintage and a producer with impeccable winemaking means this wine has the structure and balance to age gracefully for another fifteen years.
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